[AT] JD B Problems - An Update

[Carl Gogol]

One puller trick I have used a few times is when you have tightened it as 
far as you can / dare -  whack the puller's tightening bolt very stoutly 
with a hammer with the strike along the axis of the puller's bolt.  A 
carpenter's hammer is not what is wanted, something in the 3-5 Lb. range 
seems to work best as you can still get great speed with the blow.  Not sure 
if a dead blow hammer is the right approach, but I have not tried it either. 
In the 3-5 Lb. range I seem to get great energy transfer and usually very 
quick release.  Nice thing is that the parts don't fly apart, just loosen.
Carl

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dean VP
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 1:07 PM
To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
Subject: Re: [AT] JD B Problems - An Update


Steve,

There is so much metal mass in the drive disk that I don't think you have 
anything to
worry about using any kind of Acetylene Torch even with a big tip. The key 
is you want the
splines on the Drive Disk to expand a little and break the rust bond against 
the crank
shaft when it cools off. I have found that it sometimes takes a few 
heat/cool cycles to
accomplish this.  But I usually have more success pulling it off when it is 
hot. It
expands when it is hot.  A plumber's torch or even a MAP torch usually 
doesn't transfer
enough heat to be effective in my experience.  An Acetylene torch even has 
limitations
with this much metal mass.

My guess is you may have misinterpreted the disk moving when the thread 
stripped in the
disk.  Every single one of these, that I have worked on, has always become 
quite loose
once they moved at all.


Dean VP
Snohomish, WA

A gun is like a parachute. If you need one, and don't have one, you'll never 
need one
again.

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com 
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
On Behalf Of The Allen Family
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 9:38 AM
To: AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] JD B Problems - An Update

First, I want to thank everyone who has chimed in with advice and ideas to 
help me with
this old B.  I am especially grateful for those who suggested drilling out 
and rethreading
the hole in the clutch disk rather than trying to drill completely new ones.

I have purchased a new 1/2" tap and matching drill bit, and I am looking for 
a good,
heavy-duty puller, as the one I have won't accommodate the bigger cap screw.

Thinking about Dean's question about whether the disk moved at all, I find I 
am not sure.
It felt like it, but I have come to realize that the disk was never flush 
with the end of
the crank, and that feeling may have simply been the puller starting to 
slip.  I will not
be able to assess the condition of the splines till I have it off.  I have 
done this
before on this tractor, but it was never so hard before.  I have seen beat 
up splines and
crank ends, but I don't *remember* them being beat up on this one.  Still, I 
think Dean is
onto something.

I have been hitting the thing with penetrant at least once/day since.  Now I 
am thinking
about application of heat before/during the pull.  That disk is a pretty 
good chunk of
cast iron.  I don't know whether my plumber's torch will do it (though I do 
have some of
the extra hot gas).  I had been worried about buggering up the disk by 
trying to use the
acetylene torch, but, since the disk is broken, that's no big deal.  Bill 
suggested I have
the disk repaired--and I still might if I can get it off without more 
breakage--but
getting it off is the first step.  I have found a replacement for $75 if I 
need it.  I am
still worried about the big torch and the end of the crankshaft, however.  I 
have not used
a big torch just to heat parts up, so, if anyone has advice, I'd be glad to 
hear it.

THE WAX TRICK:  I have used that on bolts with great success, but I don't 
know it would be
applicable here. . . .

I haven't done much more with the tranny yet, figuring one step at a time on 
this part of
the project.  I have been hitting everything in sight with penetrant, 
however, just as a
prelude.

In any case, thanks for all the help so far and any to come.

The "original" Steve Allen
Fighting with a B near Rolla, MO

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