[AT] Cub update Part 2

jtchall at nc.rr.com jtchall at nc.rr.com
Sat Aug 24 03:59:02 PDT 2013


Certainly nothing wrong with that conversion. We ran into the same situation 
here once--the mag and the coil were fine, but the wiring had damaged 
insulation causing all sorts of head scratching.

John Hall


-----Original Message----- 
From: charlie hill
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 7:12 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Cub update Part 2

Greg, now that you shared that final chapter let me tell you an
experience I had that might have helped you if I had thought of it
earlier.  Years ago I bought a Fairbanks-Morse throttle governed
farm engine that ran but the mag had an external automotive
coil mounted to it.

I decided to try and fix the mag.  To make a long story short what I finally
found
was that there was not one thing wrong with the coil or the mag.  The
problem
was the kill wire that runs from the coil to the kill lug on the side of the
mag
had vibrated long enough to wear through the insulation and was going to
ground.
I put a few wraps of 3M 44 (electrical tape) on the wire and it was fine.
I haven't started it lately but the last time I did it was still firing just
fine.


Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Greg Hass
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 12:07 AM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: [AT] Cub update Part 2

Although I basically have battery ignition on my cub, it is not what I
had planned on all these years. First of all, I never planned on doing
anything unless I had to; second was if I had to I was going to get a
complete used battery ignition unit. What I now have is a converted mag.
The original mag is still on the tractor and still uses the impulse
coupling for timing purposes. All I have done is replace the mag coil
with a battery coil. In fact, the coil I bought has a mounting bracket
with the same screw spacing as the mag coil cover, I only had to buy
slightly longer screws for mounting on top the mag and was even able to
use the same coil to distributor wire. Each time I went to the dealer I
got a little more information,such as the points and condenser are the
same for either mag or battery. Every thing I read and a couple of
mechanics I talked to all said to leave the points set at .013 for the
mag as opposed to .020 for battery. All had the same reasoning,
including me, the the reason is that the point lobes on the mag are
quite different from true battery ignition making it necessary to keep
the mag setting. There were a couple of reasons for going the route I
did, one being the time factor; once I determined The mag was the
problem I had it running in a couple of hours. Second I didn't need the
hassle of trying to find a used one plus wondering if it was good.
Third, the average price that I have seen on places like E-bay has been
around $200. Fourth, the cub I have has only top dead center marked on
the front pulley. with the mag set it there and the impulse takes care
of the rest.
                Greg Hass
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