[AT] JD B Problems

Thu Aug 1 18:17:19 PDT 2013

Dean I've got a friend who worked for 40 years as a multi-craft mechanic
in a paper mill.  He's got all sorts of tricks.  We were working on 
something
particularly hard to get apart once.  I can't remember now what it was but 
it
wouldn't give.  We had used penetrating oil and heat and brute force, etc.
He finally went to a tool box and came back with some bees wax.  Heated the
thing red hot again and melted the bees wax into the crack between the 
housing
and the shaft.  In a few minutes it slide right off.   I'm sure the bees wax 
didn't do
it all but it finished the job off.

I had the same thought about it moving a bit and stopping but I don't even 
know what
that assembly looks like so there's no need of me trying to get into any 
details on it.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dean VP
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 8:23 PM
To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
Subject: Re: [AT] JD B Problems

After thinking about this some more I have another question.  Are you sure 
the Disk moved
at all?  I've probably removed 10 or more of these stuck drive disks and 
every one of them
took a lot of convincing to pop loose but once they moved at all they came 
off easily.  I
had one that was so stuck that I used a three prong puller on it and turned 
it as tight as
I dared and then would heat the hub of the disk with an acetylene torch a 
couple of times
and walk away for a day with the gear puller cinched up tight. It took 
several days of
repeated heated and cooling and then one day it popped and made a noise like 
a rifle shot.
The gear puller and the hub were lying on the ground. So moving a 3/16" and 
then still
refusing to come off is totally foreign to me. Which causes me to be 
suspicious of the
splines on the crank shaft. As I recall the splines are tapered so once 
loose they are
really loose.   Sum Ting Wong here.

Dean VP
Snohomish, WA

A gun is like a parachute. If you need one, and don't have one, you'll never 
need one
again.

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com 
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
On Behalf Of Dean VP
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 1:11 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] JD B Problems

Consider letting the transmission soak in Kerosene or Diesel Fuel for a few 
days if you
can get the cavity filled up that high.

Having the drive disk move some and then stop is very strange.  I've fought 
some really
stuck ones but once they broke loose at all they came off relatively eazy. 
I would
encourage you to try to determine what it preventing it to come off.  Have 
the splines or
shaft been damaged?

Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: The Allen Family <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
To: AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
Sent: Thu, Aug 1, 2013 18:07:46 GMT+00:00
Subject: [AT] JD B Problems

I first want to thank all those who have sent me advice on plowing.  I've 
had my boys
cleaning up the plow, and, at first chance, i need to get back into the 
field with it.

But I have since found/created more problems.  I am trying to get running a
'47 B that I've had for years but has been sitting for the last 12 or so.
For the last 7 years, it has been shedded, but I'm afraid the time prior to 
that in the
weather has left me some problems.

Over the last few days, I have been starting to tinker with it. I have 
discovered that
the transmission lever would not shift, and the clutch would not quite 
either engage or
release. I have done two things, and one of them has caused a problem, while 
the other has
failed to fix a problem.

First, the transmission. The lever was stuck in the bottom left hand of the 
quadrant. It
should have been in Neutral but was not. I thought it had been left in 
neutral when I
parked it, as I set the brakes (the shed is floorless and on a slight 
incline). I pulled
the steering shaft support/quadrant/shift lever off and disovered that the 
lever was
rusted stuck. I pulled that apart and freed it up. However, the shifting 
fork appears to
be stuck, too. I have tried prying on it but don't want to put too much on 
the cast piece.
I have tried lifting one wheel to release tension on the drive gears to no 
avail.
Would lifting both wheels at the same time help?

I don't know how closely related the problem is to the clutch. I started 
pulling apart
the clutch--lots of surface rust in there sticking everything together. When 
I got to the
drive disk, I put in a puller and started to pull it off. It came about 3/16 
of an inch
and stopped. One of the puller bolts pulled out of the hole in the disk--I 
guess the
threads were so rusted that they just stripped. Then I made a BAD 
decision--I fetched a
puller that has three fingers on it and put them under the lip of the disk 
and started
pulling again. Result: a chunk of cast disk broke out. So now I am stuck 
with a ruined
drive disk that I can't use either kind of puller on.

My Plans C and D: I have thought about two possible ways to proceed. Plan
C: I could drill and tap two new holes for the puller. I suspect this would 
be a LONG,
HARD job. Plan D: I could JB Weld one of the puller bolts into the stripped 
hole in the
disk. I would lose the puller bolts (I'd have to cut the crossbar of the 
puller off), but
the disk is shot anyway. I'd appreciate any thoughts about either Plan C or 
D. I would
also appreciate any advice on what I can do to make the job easier. 
Can/Should I apply
heat?
Where? I don't want to bugger up the crankshaft--I already came close to 
damaging the
threads. I have of course applied penetrating oil, but who knows how helpful 
that might be
in a situation like this?

Any thoughts/suggestions/commiserations about these two problems would be 
VERY MUCH
appreciated!

The "original" Steve Allen

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