[AT] JD B Problems

Thu Aug 1 18:52:10 PDT 2013

Charlie,

I've heard of that trick before. I've never tried it. I guess at my current old age I
forget about that trick when I really need it.   Here in NW WA we get so much rust due to
our wet weather that everything is rusted tight.   There are many fasteners and assemblies
that I would have never gotten apart without the gas axe technique.  I have never truly
experienced anything coming apart just solely with the use of any type of penetrating oil
of any type and I've tried a bunch.  Heat is the only solution that has worked for me and
sometimes that doesn't even work.  I recently had a sleeve over a JD three point hitch
lift link shaft that absolutely refused to be removed. In this case I even got it to move
a bit but no matter how much heat or how big a hammer I used it just was not going to
cooperate.  I finally cut the #@$%^& thing off with a right angle disk grinder.
Fortunately the replacement sleeve is made in reproduction form so it isn't a
significantly costly item.  But with some confidence I can say that MOST of the time heat
will solve the problem.

However, it takes a lot of heat and I mean a LOT of heat on the JD Drive disk because
there is so much metal mass in the drive disk by itself and that is attached to another
big heat sink called a huge crankshaft.  I'm 99.8% sure the splines are tapered on the
crankshaft and the mating drive disk so once it moves at all it should be loose unless
there is something else really wrong. If I had to guess right now I suspect the disk
hasn't really moved yet on the crankshaft.  If a drive disk ever gets loose on the shaft
it can create quite a bit of havoc on the splines.  The uneven firing sequence on a JD Two
Cylinder engine is pretty violent.

What hasn't been mentioned yet is how much a new reproduction drive disk is going to cost.
$$$$ But used parts for a 47 JD B are pretty available. In fact I might even have a used
one out in the barn. I don't recall for sure right now.

Dean VP
Snohomish, WA

A gun is like a parachute. If you need one, and don't have one, you'll never need one
again.

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
On Behalf Of charlie hill
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 6:17 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] JD B Problems

Dean I've got a friend who worked for 40 years as a multi-craft mechanic in a paper mill.
He's got all sorts of tricks.  We were working on something particularly hard to get apart
once.  I can't remember now what it was but it wouldn't give.  We had used penetrating oil
and heat and brute force, etc.
He finally went to a tool box and came back with some bees wax.  Heated the thing red hot
again and melted the bees wax into the crack between the housing
and the shaft.  In a few minutes it slide right off.   I'm sure the bees wax
didn't do
it all but it finished the job off.

I had the same thought about it moving a bit and stopping but I don't even know what that
assembly looks like so there's no need of me trying to get into any details on it.

Charlie

-----Original Message-----
From: Dean VP
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 8:23 PM
To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
Subject: Re: [AT] JD B Problems

After thinking about this some more I have another question.  Are you sure the Disk moved
at all?  I've probably removed 10 or more of these stuck drive disks and every one of them
took a lot of convincing to pop loose but once they moved at all they came off easily.  I
had one that was so stuck that I used a three prong puller on it and turned it as tight as
I dared and then would heat the hub of the disk with an acetylene torch a couple of times
and walk away for a day with the gear puller cinched up tight. It took several days of
repeated heated and cooling and then one day it popped and made a noise like a rifle shot.
The gear puller and the hub were lying on the ground. So moving a 3/16" and then still
refusing to come off is totally foreign to me. Which causes me to be suspicious of the
splines on the crank shaft. As I recall the splines are tapered so once loose they are
really loose.   Sum Ting Wong here.

Dean VP
Snohomish, WA

A gun is like a parachute. If you need one, and don't have one, you'll never need one
again.

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
On Behalf Of Dean VP
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 1:11 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] JD B Problems

Consider letting the transmission soak in Kerosene or Diesel Fuel for a few
days if you
can get the cavity filled up that high.

Having the drive disk move some and then stop is very strange.  I've fought
some really
stuck ones but once they broke loose at all they came off relatively eazy.
I would
encourage you to try to determine what it preventing it to come off.  Have
the splines or
shaft been damaged?

Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: The Allen Family <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
To: AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
Sent: Thu, Aug 1, 2013 18:07:46 GMT+00:00
Subject: [AT] JD B Problems

I first want to thank all those who have sent me advice on plowing.  I've
had my boys
cleaning up the plow, and, at first chance, i need to get back into the
field with it.

But I have since found/created more problems.  I am trying to get running a
'47 B that I've had for years but has been sitting for the last 12 or so.
For the last 7 years, it has been shedded, but I'm afraid the time prior to
that in the
weather has left me some problems.

Over the last few days, I have been starting to tinker with it. I have
discovered that
the transmission lever would not shift, and the clutch would not quite
either engage or
release. I have done two things, and one of them has caused a problem, while
the other has
failed to fix a problem.

First, the transmission. The lever was stuck in the bottom left hand of the
quadrant. It
should have been in Neutral but was not. I thought it had been left in
neutral when I
parked it, as I set the brakes (the shed is floorless and on a slight
incline). I pulled
the steering shaft support/quadrant/shift lever off and disovered that the
lever was
rusted stuck. I pulled that apart and freed it up. However, the shifting
fork appears to
be stuck, too. I have tried prying on it but don't want to put too much on
the cast piece.
I have tried lifting one wheel to release tension on the drive gears to no
avail.
Would lifting both wheels at the same time help?

I don't know how closely related the problem is to the clutch. I started
pulling apart
the clutch--lots of surface rust in there sticking everything together. When
I got to the
drive disk, I put in a puller and started to pull it off. It came about 3/16
of an inch
and stopped. One of the puller bolts pulled out of the hole in the disk--I
guess the
threads were so rusted that they just stripped. Then I made a BAD
decision--I fetched a
puller that has three fingers on it and put them under the lip of the disk
and started
pulling again. Result: a chunk of cast disk broke out. So now I am stuck
with a ruined
drive disk that I can't use either kind of puller on.

My Plans C and D: I have thought about two possible ways to proceed. Plan
C: I could drill and tap two new holes for the puller. I suspect this would
be a LONG,
HARD job. Plan D: I could JB Weld one of the puller bolts into the stripped
hole in the
disk. I would lose the puller bolts (I'd have to cut the crossbar of the
puller off), but
the disk is shot anyway. I'd appreciate any thoughts about either Plan C or
D. I would
also appreciate any advice on what I can do to make the job easier.
Can/Should I apply
heat?
Where? I don't want to bugger up the crankshaft--I already came close to
damaging the
threads. I have of course applied penetrating oil, but who knows how helpful
that might be
in a situation like this?

Any thoughts/suggestions/commiserations about these two problems would be
VERY MUCH
appreciated!

The "original" Steve Allen

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