[AT] MF 135

charlie hill charliehill at embarqmail.com
Sat Apr 6 16:59:47 PDT 2013


Dudley,  this is a question more than a suggestion because I just don't know 
much
about  those engines.  I'm wondering if you could use plasti-gauge, tighten 
it down
once on the plasti-gage, pull it back apart to see how much shim you need, 
put in the
correct shims the first time and be done with it?

Charlie


----Original Message----- 
From: Tom
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 7:46 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] MF 135

Can I ask why you didn't shim the rods to the crank while it was out?

Tom

--- On Sat, 6/4/13, drupert at seanet.com <drupert at seanet.com> wrote:


I too find shims guesswork and a pain.  I am currently in the process of
overhauling a 1952 JD Model B engine.  The crank has been reworked and is
back in and the Block has been bored 90 thousands. The Rods have been
checked, new Bushings installed and are now ready to be attach to the
Crank.  However, the Rod Bearings(Babbitt) are adjusted via shims and
therein is my excuse for procrastination.  I hate having to reach in the
small access hole to tighten a Rod only to learn that I have to loosen it
to add/substract shims and then drop some/all of the shims from one side
of the Rod into the bottom of the engine only to not be able to reach
under the Crank to retrieve all of those tiny brass shims.


Dudley

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