[AT] Ford 5000 Hydraulic lift cylinder

[Cecil R Bearden]

I would do that, but there is only 3/16 in. metal from the threads to 
one side of the mounting boss.  There is a control valve bore behind it 
1/2 in deep.  It is an oddball thread, and the sleeve that threads into 
it is expensive.  There is not a lot of room to do much and the top of 
the mounting boss must be within 0.010 of what is was before to work 
right....

Really just a very poor design.  And these guys did not have Autocad to 
blame the stupidity on!!!

Cecil in Okla


On 5/1/2012 12:43 PM, Steve W. wrote:
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Cecil R Bearden
>>> Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 12:22 AM
>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Ford 5000 Hydraulic lift cylinder
>>>
>>> Anyone got a source for a hyd lift cylinder for a 5000 Ford w/o the load
>>> monitor??
>>>
>>> I pulled the top deck today to repair the PTO clutch and find out why
>>> the lift would not lower.   I followed the directions in the I&T shop
>>> manual, and it stated to pull the hydraulic lift cover then remove the
>>> pipe and filter to the hyd pump.   The Hyd filter had a pipe that screws
>>> into the side of the hyd lift cylinder.  Where the pipe screws into the
>>> cylinder is now broken in half.  A replacement cylinder is about
>>> $1500.00 !!!!!   I was trying to get the tractor ready to take to a
>>> auction sale.  I really do not know if we broke it today or it has been
>>> cracked for a long time and gave way a couple of years ago.
>>>
>>>
>>> Anyway, I have to find a cylinder or maybe overbore the old hole, and
>>> screw in a bushing, then rethread the bushing.  I can do it, but it
>>> would be much better done by an old machinist friend of mine.
>>>
>>> Anyone have any experience?
>>>
>>> Cecil in OKla
> I would say the easiest repair would be to weld it back together. Bevel
> the edges of both pieces Then use a stub of the same pipe size to line
> up the threads and clamp the broken piece on. Use a torch to heat that
> section of the casting then hit it with a high nickel rod. Tack it in
> place. Then weld a small spot. Hammer the slag off and do another small
> spot on the opposite side. Keep going till you get it welded back on.
> Now before you let it cool unscrew the stub so it can shrink back as it
> cools. Once done you could make a collar and braze it in place if you're
> real concerned about the weld.
>