[Farmall] 1949 H Exhaust Pipe

[szabelsk at gdls.com]

On pipe threads you have to be careful when tapping them. If you go too 
deep, the pipe will not thread into the manifold. This is because pipe 
threads are tapered, not straight as on a bolt or screw. With tapered pipe 
threads, the deeper you run the tap, the deeper the first thread is in the 
manifold. If you make it too deep, the thread on the pipe won't catch or 
you wont' be able to get a good tight fit because the pipe will bottom out 
against the manifold before the threads are fully engaged. On threaded 
pipes you should see a couple of threads still exposed after the pipe is 
properly tightened because the end of the pipe will bottomed out before 
all the threads are used. 

What I would suggest as a cheap way of trying to dress the threads up is 
to buy a short pipe nipple,six inches or so, and cut a slot or two in the 
threads. Use it like a tap to try and clean out the existing threads. Push 
down as you run the nipple in and out in short turns. Use plenty of 
cutting fluid or some type of rust dissolver to try and break up the rust. 
You don't need to get perfect threads since you're not trying to make a 
water tight joint, just enough thread for the new pipe to grab and hold. 
If the pipe threads in but keeps loosening after you've driven the tractor 
a while it means that you don't have enough threads to keep the pipe 
tight. In that case consider adding a support bracket or clamp to keep the 
pipe from working loose. Secure it using a couple of existing bolts on the 
engine.

Carl Szabelski


The Borg Are Wrong, Resistance Is Not Futile ..... It's Voltage / Current




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Sent by: farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
06/06/2012 06:35 PM
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Re: [Farmall] 1949 H Exhaust Pipe







Chasing is similar to tapping. Chasing is not supposed to remove any 
metal. You will probably have a hard time finding a chaser for 2" pipe 
thread anyway. If the threads are that bad they will probably
need cut a little deeper anyway so a tap will do just fine. Hopefully you 
know someone you can borrow one from.



Todd Markle 

Spring Mills, Pa.



-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Savelle <tim.savelle at gmail.com>
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Wed, Jun 6, 2012 5:08 pm
Subject: Re: [Farmall] 1949 H Exhaust Pipe


*Thanks for the quick reply, John.  I don't know what "chased" means.  Is
hat the same as tapping?  * *It does appear as if there were threads in
he manifold at one time, but they are almost indistinguishable.  **Rust
nd carbon buildup, I suppose.  I've never tried to tap cast iron.  **Are
here any pitfalls that I should know about? Tim*
On Wed, Jun 6, 2012 at 3:19 PM, Gwinn, John J (GE Transportation) <
ohn.J.gwinn at ge.com> wrote:
> >From my experience, there is no adhesive product for the application 
you
 describe.  The original manifold was threaded for two inch normal pipe
 thread (NPT).  The manifold threads need to be "chased" and a new 
threaded
 pipe stub screwed in-place.  Such a repair will give you an adequate
 exhaust seal and provide sufficient support for your muffler or exhaust
 pipe.  Such a repair is fairly inexpensive and quick to apply.

 -----Original Message-----
 From: farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:
 farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Tim Savelle
 Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 3:07 PM
 To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
 Subject: [Farmall] 1949 H Exhaust Pipe

 Got a problem.  The exhaust pipe on my 1949H broke lose from the manifold
 recently when I hit a bump.  The pipe is 2" black iron pipe, and a 
previous
 owner had apparently not welded it very good to the manifold.  Someone in
 my tractor club suggested grinding down the end of the pipe until it fits
 inside the manifold and drive it in place.  I did that, but afraid of
 breaking the manifold driving it in I decided to seat it good and try to
 seal it.  I've tried two different compounds:  a muffler sealer from a
 parts store and JB Weld.  Neither held up under the heat.  I don't think 
a
 welder is going to be willing to try to weld or braze it back into place
 because of the proximity to the gas tank and other meltable things, and I
 would prefer not to take off the manifold nor the gas tank due to the 
time
 involved.  Does anyone know of a sealing compound of some sort that will
 stand up to the heat at the intersection of the exhaust pipe and 
manifold?
  Guess I'm looking for a quick, easy fix here if one can be found to
 prevent extended down time for repairs.  Thanks a bunch, Tim
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