[AT] OT Hydrocarbon Refrigerant

toma at risingnet.net toma at risingnet.net
Sat Jun 30 17:50:00 PDT 2012


Here in CA. We have to pay a. $10 deposit. On each can of R134.. They  
are charging $15 for the R134.  Last year it could be had for $7 or $8  
with no deposit on the can.  On top of that Napa is giving me a hard  
time getting credit for the deposit. I told them I was going to try  
Autozone.  It is getting to be such a hassle I am thinking of going to  
propane.

Quoting Mike Meulenberg <meulenms at gmx.com>:

> I'm not sure if it's me or the newer refrigerants, but the air in my  
> truck rarely leaves "max"
> Mike M
>
>
> ----- Receiving the following content -----
> From: Ivan
> Receiver: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Time: 2012-06-29, 22:21:21
> Subject: Re: [AT] OT Hydrocarbon Refrigerant
>
>
> Cecil , I have started using stuff called enviro safe , R 22A in my
> motorhome and in the house . Some kind of propane blend too . I had to
> top off the motorhome again tonight so went back to double check the
> instructions . They say to charge to ambient temp minus 10 above 70
> degrees and lower than that to only 5 below . But in no conditions to go
> over 85 psi ! So its charged to 85 on the low side and the line is
> sweating a little . Inside the unit is blowing 58 degree air out of the
> vents with inside temp of 81 . It is slightly overcharged but since its
> leaking it'll only work for a week or so , hopefully till we get back
> from down south . I got faith in the winnebago , theres three cans plus
> the gauges .
>    I used to be able to get my old truck down to 38 degrees out of the
> vent with R134 but since I changed trucks no way . Ivan
>
>   On 6/28/2012 8:10 AM, Cecil R Bearden wrote:
>> OK, I know this is off topic, but if I donh't have A/C in the tractors
>> and trucks this summer, I won't be able to drive these antique tractors.
>>
>> I also have heard all the arguments about HC refrigerants being unsafe
>> and all that other crap. I have tried to research the web about folks
>> experience with these and every time I find something relevant the
>> thread is hijacked by some all-knowing guru who keeps flaming the person
>> for using something other that what the politicians and the Dupont owned
>> EPA has dictated. SO, Dont start with the safety etc CRAP.. I have
>> heard and read it all.
>>
>> I have used Red Tek for years but it has been on capillary tube or
>> orifice tube systems. I recently had problems with my 94 Dodge Van
>> with rear air not cooling. It would get 70 deg, but not lower. It used
>> to blow 40deg air on 134A. I pumped it down and added ES-12A, the
>> same thing as Red Tek, and I would get a sweating suction line, but only
>> 68deg air in a 98deg outside temp. gauge readings were 175 to 200 high
>> and 35 on the low. I changed the expansion valve and drier and got the
>> same results. I then changed the compressor and recharged without
>> pumping down the system as was described in some notes on ES-12A
>> (Envirosafe Website) I got about 205 -210 high side and 35 to 40 low,
>> with 100 deg outside air and working in the shade ( My outdoor shop).
>> At 205 to 210 high side, the gauge needle was fluttering or vibrating
>> madly from 195 to 215. If I lowered the pressure by letting some
>> refrigerant out, it would quit fluttering at 195. I did not have any
>> sweating on the suction line this time, and the air was 70 deg out the
>> vent. I might add that the vent temp was the same front and rear. The
>> systems are connected in parallel, so if one exp valve is bypassing,
>> then that is probably the high pressure reached. I varied the amount
>> of refrigerant etc, but cannot get anything lower than 70 deg out the
>> vent. I have opened the evaporator box, and made sure I have a clean
>> evaporator to get the max air flow.
>>
>> I contacted Enviro safe tech who suggested that the expansion valve was
>> causing the flutter and allowing refrig to bypass at a lower pressure
>> than needed to get a full refrigerant =coverage on the evaporator.
>> Since the front and rear are connected in parallel, you cannot easily
>> determine which valve is the problem. I replaced the front.
>>
>> Any suggestions. I used the ES-12A because the price of 134A has
>> gotten expensive.
>>
>> Cecil in OKla
>>
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