[AT] OT Hydrocarbon Refrigerant

[k7jdj at aol.com]

I know nothing about A/C but my son is using propane for refrigenant.  Works great.  I understand that propane is used in Europe.

Gary

Renton, WA



-----Original Message-----
From: Cecil R Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Thu, Jun 28, 2012 5:19 am
Subject: Re: [AT] OT  Hydrocarbon Refrigerant



OK, I know this is off topic, but if I donh't have A/C in the tractors 
and trucks this summer, I won't be able to drive these antique tractors.

I also have heard all the arguments about  HC refrigerants being unsafe 
and all that other crap.   I have tried to research the web about folks 
experience with these and every time I find something relevant the 
thread is hijacked by some all-knowing guru who keeps flaming the person 
for using something other that what the politicians and the Dupont owned 
EPA has dictated.   SO, Dont start with the safety etc CRAP.. I have 
heard and read it all.

I have used Red Tek for years but it has been on capillary tube or 
orifice tube systems.   I recently had problems with my 94 Dodge Van 
with rear air not cooling.  It would get 70 deg, but not lower.  It used 
to blow 40deg air on 134A.    I pumped it down and added ES-12A, the 
same thing as Red Tek, and I would get a sweating suction line, but only 
68deg air in a 98deg outside temp.   gauge readings were 175 to 200 high 
and 35 on the low.   I changed the expansion valve and drier and got the 
same  results.   I then changed the compressor and recharged without 
pumping down the system as was described in some notes on ES-12A 
(Envirosafe Website)  I got about 205 -210 high side and 35 to 40 low, 
with 100 deg outside air and working in the shade ( My outdoor shop).  
At 205 to 210 high side, the gauge needle was fluttering or vibrating 
madly from 195 to 215.  If I lowered the pressure by letting some 
refrigerant out, it would quit fluttering at 195.   I did not have any 
sweating on the suction line this time, and the air was 70 deg out the 
vent.  I might add that the vent temp was the same front and rear.   The 
systems are connected in parallel, so if one exp valve is bypassing, 
then that is probably the high pressure reached.   I varied the amount 
of refrigerant etc, but cannot get anything lower than 70 deg out the 
vent.   I have opened the evaporator box, and made sure I have a clean 
evaporator to get the max air flow.

I contacted Enviro safe tech who suggested that the expansion valve was 
causing the flutter and allowing refrig to bypass at a lower pressure 
than needed to get a full refrigerant =coverage on the evaporator.   
Since the front and rear are connected in parallel, you cannot easily 
determine which valve is the problem.   I replaced the front.

Any suggestions.    I used the ES-12A because the price of 134A has 
gotten expensive.

Cecil in OKla

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