[AT] Easier to Start?

[Ben Wagner]

Hi Louis,

Thank you for the thorough email.  I do find it interesting about the 
spark plugs.  I run D21's in my A's because the tractor will not run any 
other way.  About this time last year, my 1945 A started and began 
running strangely,  It smoked, missed, and had no power.  It had 
Autolite sparkplugs, which I pulled and replaced with D21's due to 
advice from a gentleman on the Farmall List.  Ever since then I have had 
no trouble with it!  A similar trick happened on the Super A, since I 
had similar Autolite sparkplugs at the time.  It even started knocking 
until I added D21's.

I wonder what causes the difference?  Do you have a comparable AC or 
Autolite plug you use?

Ben Wagner


On 7/15/2012 11:44 PM, Louis wrote:
> If it were a tractor that I was repairing, there are two things that I would
> do.  The first one is replace the Champion plugs with something else, AC or
> Autolite.  The second thing I would check it your entire fuel system.  First
> take the plug out of the bottom of your carb and see if the fuel is flowing
> at a good rate.  If it is the next step is to check your float level, I
> don't have that info right now, it is at my shop.  If you contact me off
> list, I can email it to you.  You check the level by screwing a 1/8" nipple
> into the drain plug hole.  Have a piece of clear tubing attached to the
> nipple, bend it so it goes higher than the top of the float bowl.  Measure
> the fuel level to the bottom of the carb body.  If that is alright, remove
> the carb and completely disassemble it.  You might have a blocked main
> passage or blocked vent passage.  I just had a McCormick W9 in my shop this
> past week, it was running alright till just recently. Then the customer said
> you would have to have the choke half way on to get it to rev up and stay
> revved up. I confirmed and he was correct. I went through the above steps
> and found the main nozzle partially plugged.  I made sure all the other
> passages were clean, put the carb back on the tractor and it runs like a
> top. You might also want to check for a vacuum leak. While the tractor is
> running, spray some starting fluid around the intake portion of the manifold
> and where the carb bolts to the manifold.  If the engine speeds up at all,
> you have a leak.
>
> I say the spark plugs also, because there are several cases where I have
> tractors start hard, I then changed the plugs to a different brand other
> than Champion, and the hard starting problems went away.
>
>   
> Louis Spiegelberg
> Spiegelberg Restoration and Service, LTD
> 440-965-7679
> www.srstractor.com
> www.facebook.com/srsltd
> mailto:sales at srstractor.com
>   
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Ben Wagner
> Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2012 9:03 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group; Farmall/IHC mailing list
> Subject: [AT] Easier to Start?
>
>
> Good Evening,
>
> It's been awhile since I have had to bring you an issue on my Farmall
> Super A.  It has always been hard to start, taking a long time of
> cranking (normally two periods of three seconds each) before it will
> begin to fire.  Lately, the electrical system has acted up, and I am
> trying to start it with a hand crank.  It's great exercise, but not the
> greatest use of my time.  It took a good 20 some turns with the hand
> crank to get it to start firing tonight.  I'm surprised my arm can still
> type!
>
> Is there any sort of "trick" some of you know of to convince a tractor
> to start easier with a hand crank?
>
> In case it is important, the Super A has a good magneto, D21 spark
> plugs, and a Zenith carb.  It also only runs well on half choke, and
> there are no adjustments on the Zenith beyond the idle mixture.  I know
> the impulse coupling works, unless I am mistaken.
>
> Thanks for your help.  I'm sure all of you have had the tractor that
> won't start well with a hand crank!
>
> Ben Wagner
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