[AT] Easier to Start?

Fri Jul 20 14:29:51 PDT 2012

Hi Dean,
Sorry to bother with all these questions, but my guess is that the
heater goes into the oil drain plug, and that you can remove the
electrical cord after getting the engine going, so you can drive the
tractor around?
Thanks,
Tyler

On 7/20/12, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
> Tyler,
>
> They run on 120V standard household service. But you need to find one
> designed to be used
> on the JD A so it can be left in while running.  Keep in mind that heating
> anything with
> 120V for a long period of time can get expensive. Just plug it in an hour or
> so before you
> want to run the tractor.  I've seen these heat plugs designed for JD
> tractors but right
> now I don't recall who sells them. Try Steiner Tractor Parts or Davenport
> Tractor parts.
>
> Dean VP
> Snohomish, WA
>
> "Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no path and
> leave a trail."
> - Ralph Waldo Emerson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
> On Behalf Of Tyler Juranek
> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 9:30 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?
>
> Hi Dean,
> Does this run on electricity?
> If I need to start it, do I remove the heater and switch back to the plug?
> Thanks,
> Tyler
>
> On 7/20/12, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
>> Tyler,
>>
>> Find an  oil heater than can be used in place of the oil drain plug.
>>
>> Dean VP
>> Snohomish, WA
>>
>> "Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no path
>> and leave a trail."
>> - Ralph Waldo Emerson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
>> On Behalf Of Tyler Juranek
>> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 8:44 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?
>>
>> Hi,
>> I have a 36 JD A.
>> I am kinda concerned about it this winter. Since it is so dry now, I
>> have a feeling that winter will be verry harsh.
>> I have antifreeze in the radiator along with water, but the oil will
>> be a different story, since it'll be pretty stiff.
>> I don't know if I'll have to start it this winter, but how do I get
>> the oil to free itself up, so it's not so stiff?
>> On my dad's 50, I don't think we will have to worry about it to much,
>> since it has electric start.
>> Take Care,
>> Tyler
>>
>> On 7/19/12, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
>>> Tyler,
>>>
>>> Yes, JD provided rather unique short stubs that would fit into the
>>> center of the flywheel at one end and then the other end was made to
>>> allow the steering wheel to be attached so one could use the steering
>>> wheel off the tractor and the little stub to start an electric start
>>> tractor. In the very early electric start tractors, 6 volt batteries
>>> were used which were under rated to begin with and under any kind of
>>> adverse condition they would often fail to perform their starting
>>> duties. Battery technology has come a long ways since the late 30's
>>> and early 40's as well. On our farm and I suspect many others an old
>>> steering wheel was semi-permanently attached to these stubs which
>>> were unique for the older letter series and then changed in the late
>>> letter series and early numbered series.
>>> The early
>>> numbered series were all 12V start tractors and used two 6V batteries
>>> wired in series. The early letter series 6V electric start was very
>>> marginal and next to useless when the temps dropped below zero.  So
>>> hand starting and pulling the tractor with anything else that would
>>> start was usually employed. I don't recall starting problems with the
>>> early numbered series, in the early 50's  as long as the batteries
>>> were charged. That excludes the diesels. Block heaters were required
>>> for diesels in NW IA where winter time lows often got into to the -40
>>> degrees F range in the 1940's and 1950's. Block heaters even helped a
>>> lot for the gas tractors but were not utilized much in the early 40's.
>>> Maybe it had to do with the fact that REA (Rural Electrification
>>> Association) was in itself quite unreliable in the winter again in
>>> the late 30's early 40's.  I recall reading many a book by Kerosene
>>> lamp for a few years even after we had REA on the farm. It just
>>> wasn't reliable the first few years.
>>>
>>> Dean VP
>>> Snohomish, WA
>>>
>>> "Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no path
>>> and leave a trail."
>>> - Ralph Waldo Emerson
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
>>> On Behalf Of Tyler Juranek
>>> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 4:42 PM
>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?
>>>
>>> Hi, interesting.
>>> Wasn't there a way to crank the two cylinder Jd's with electric start
>>> as well?
>>> If anyone knows how to do so, can you please explain?
>>> Thanks,
>>> Tyler
>>>
>>> On 7/19/12, Steve W. <swilliams268 at frontier.com> wrote:
>>>> Mike Sloane wrote:
>>>>> The old Farmall tractors don't care whether you use the crank or
>>>>> the starter motor. And it doesn't matter whether they have electric
>>>>> ignition or magneto. One advantage of those old Farmall gas engines
>>>>> is that they were very, very simple - nothing that you wouldn't
>>>>> recognize out of VoTech text book describing generic 4 cylinder
>>>>> in-line engines. There was no vacuum advance, nothing sophisticated
>>>>> at all. The smaller tractors came with a crank that sat in special
>>>>> clips in or on the operator platform, while the larger machines had
>>>>> other arrangements. The Cubs, and A/B/C's were very easy to crank,
>>>>> but I have never tried to crank an M or H. I think those might be
>>>>> more work. Incidentally, when I needed to turn the engine over on
>>>>> my Ford 2N, I discovered that the Farmall Cub hand crank fit
>>>>> perfectly.
>>>>> The only "trick", as others have mentioned, is that you don't just
>>>>> spin the handle around. You engage the crank in the "down"
>>>>> position, keep your thumb close to your index finger, and pull up
>>>>> smartly on the handle. Of course, it also requires that the gas be
>>>>> open, the ignition on, the throttle about half way, and maybe the
>>>>> choke closed (the first time only). 9 out of 10 times, the crank is
>>>>> the only way my
>>>>> '48 Cub will
>>> start.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> My F-20 starts pretty well, so does the H. Not hard cranking either
>>>> one.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Steve W.
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
>>
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>
>
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