[AT] Easier to Start?

Fri Jul 20 09:30:10 PDT 2012

Hi Dean,
Does this run on electricity?
If I need to start it, do I remove the heater and switch back to the plug?
Thanks,
Tyler

On 7/20/12, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
> Tyler,
>
> Find an  oil heater than can be used in place of the oil drain plug.
>
> Dean VP
> Snohomish, WA
>
> "Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no path and
> leave a trail."
> - Ralph Waldo Emerson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
> On Behalf Of Tyler Juranek
> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 8:44 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?
>
> Hi,
> I have a 36 JD A.
> I am kinda concerned about it this winter. Since it is so dry now, I have a
> feeling that
> winter will be verry harsh.
> I have antifreeze in the radiator along with water, but the oil will be a
> different story,
> since it'll be pretty stiff.
> I don't know if I'll have to start it this winter, but how do I get the oil
> to free itself
> up, so it's not so stiff?
> On my dad's 50, I don't think we will have to worry about it to much, since
> it has
> electric start.
> Take Care,
> Tyler
>
> On 7/19/12, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
>> Tyler,
>>
>> Yes, JD provided rather unique short stubs that would fit into the
>> center of the flywheel at one end and then the other end was made to
>> allow the steering wheel to be attached so one could use the steering
>> wheel off the tractor and the little stub to start an electric start
>> tractor. In the very early electric start tractors, 6 volt batteries
>> were used which were under rated to begin with and under any kind of
>> adverse condition they would often fail to perform their starting
>> duties. Battery technology has come a long ways since the late 30's
>> and early 40's as well. On our farm and I suspect many others an old
>> steering wheel was semi-permanently attached to these stubs which were
>> unique for the older letter series and then changed in the late letter
>> series and early numbered series.
>> The early
>> numbered series were all 12V start tractors and used two 6V batteries
>> wired in series. The early letter series 6V electric start was very
>> marginal and next to useless when the temps dropped below zero.  So
>> hand starting and pulling the tractor with anything else that would
>> start was usually employed. I don't recall starting problems with the
>> early numbered series, in the early 50's  as long as the batteries
>> were charged. That excludes the diesels. Block heaters were required
>> for diesels in NW IA where winter time lows often got into to the -40
>> degrees F range in the 1940's and 1950's. Block heaters even helped a
>> lot for the gas tractors but were not utilized much in the early 40's.
>> Maybe it had to do with the fact that REA (Rural Electrification
>> Association) was in itself quite unreliable in the winter again in the
>> late 30's early 40's.  I recall reading many a book by Kerosene lamp
>> for a few years even after we had REA on the farm. It just wasn't
>> reliable the first few years.
>>
>> Dean VP
>> Snohomish, WA
>>
>> "Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no path
>> and leave a trail."
>> - Ralph Waldo Emerson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
>> On Behalf Of Tyler Juranek
>> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 4:42 PM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?
>>
>> Hi, interesting.
>> Wasn't there a way to crank the two cylinder Jd's with electric start
>> as well?
>> If anyone knows how to do so, can you please explain?
>> Thanks,
>> Tyler
>>
>> On 7/19/12, Steve W. <swilliams268 at frontier.com> wrote:
>>> Mike Sloane wrote:
>>>> The old Farmall tractors don't care whether you use the crank or the
>>>> starter motor. And it doesn't matter whether they have electric
>>>> ignition or magneto. One advantage of those old Farmall gas engines
>>>> is that they were very, very simple - nothing that you wouldn't
>>>> recognize out of VoTech text book describing generic 4 cylinder
>>>> in-line engines. There was no vacuum advance, nothing sophisticated
>>>> at all. The smaller tractors came with a crank that sat in special
>>>> clips in or on the operator platform, while the larger machines had
>>>> other arrangements. The Cubs, and A/B/C's were very easy to crank,
>>>> but I have never tried to crank an M or H. I think those might be
>>>> more work. Incidentally, when I needed to turn the engine over on my
>>>> Ford 2N, I discovered that the Farmall Cub hand crank fit perfectly.
>>>> The only "trick", as others have mentioned, is that you don't just
>>>> spin the handle around. You engage the crank in the "down" position,
>>>> keep your thumb close to your index finger, and pull up smartly on
>>>> the handle. Of course, it also requires that the gas be open, the
>>>> ignition on, the throttle about half way, and maybe the choke closed
>>>> (the first time only). 9 out of 10 times, the crank is the only way
>>>> my
>>>> '48 Cub will
>> start.
>>>>
>>>
>>> My F-20 starts pretty well, so does the H. Not hard cranking either one.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Steve W.
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>
>>
>>
>> --
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>
>
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