[AT] Easier to Start?

[Tyler Juranek]

Hi,
I have a 36 JD A.
I am kinda concerned about it this winter. Since it is so dry now, I
have a feeling that winter will be verry harsh.
I have antifreeze in the radiator along with water, but the oil will
be a different story, since it'll be pretty stiff.
I don't know if I'll have to start it this winter, but how do I get
the oil to free itself up, so it's not so stiff?
On my dad's 50, I don't think we will have to worry about it to much,
since it has electric start.
Take Care,
Tyler

On 7/19/12, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
> Tyler,
>
> Yes, JD provided rather unique short stubs that would fit into the center of
> the flywheel
> at one end and then the other end was made to allow the steering wheel to be
> attached so
> one could use the steering wheel off the tractor and the little stub to
> start an electric
> start tractor. In the very early electric start tractors, 6 volt batteries
> were used which
> were under rated to begin with and under any kind of adverse condition they
> would often
> fail to perform their starting duties. Battery technology has come a long
> ways since the
> late 30's and early 40's as well. On our farm and I suspect many others an
> old steering
> wheel was semi-permanently attached to these stubs which were unique for the
> older letter
> series and then changed in the late letter series and early numbered series.
> The early
> numbered series were all 12V start tractors and used two 6V batteries wired
> in series. The
> early letter series 6V electric start was very marginal and next to useless
> when the temps
> dropped below zero.  So hand starting and pulling the tractor with anything
> else that
> would start was usually employed. I don't recall starting problems with the
> early numbered
> series, in the early 50's  as long as the batteries were charged. That
> excludes the
> diesels. Block heaters were required for diesels in NW IA where winter time
> lows often got
> into to the -40 degrees F range in the 1940's and 1950's. Block heaters even
> helped a lot
> for the gas tractors but were not utilized much in the early 40's. Maybe it
> had to do with
> the fact that REA (Rural Electrification Association) was in itself quite
> unreliable in
> the winter again in the late 30's early 40's.  I recall reading many a book
> by Kerosene
> lamp for a few years even after we had REA on the farm. It just wasn't
> reliable the first
> few years.
>
> Dean VP
> Snohomish, WA
>
> "Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no path and
> leave a trail."
> - Ralph Waldo Emerson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
> On Behalf Of Tyler Juranek
> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 4:42 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?
>
> Hi, interesting.
> Wasn't there a way to crank the two cylinder Jd's with electric start as
> well?
> If anyone knows how to do so, can you please explain?
> Thanks,
> Tyler
>
> On 7/19/12, Steve W. <swilliams268 at frontier.com> wrote:
>> Mike Sloane wrote:
>>> The old Farmall tractors don't care whether you use the crank or the
>>> starter motor. And it doesn't matter whether they have electric
>>> ignition or magneto. One advantage of those old Farmall gas engines
>>> is that they were very, very simple - nothing that you wouldn't
>>> recognize out of VoTech text book describing generic 4 cylinder
>>> in-line engines. There was no vacuum advance, nothing sophisticated
>>> at all. The smaller tractors came with a crank that sat in special
>>> clips in or on the operator platform, while the larger machines had
>>> other arrangements. The Cubs, and A/B/C's were very easy to crank,
>>> but I have never tried to crank an M or H. I think those might be
>>> more work. Incidentally, when I needed to turn the engine over on my
>>> Ford 2N, I discovered that the Farmall Cub hand crank fit perfectly.
>>> The only "trick", as others have mentioned, is that you don't just
>>> spin the handle around. You engage the crank in the "down" position,
>>> keep your thumb close to your index finger, and pull up smartly on
>>> the handle. Of course, it also requires that the gas be open, the
>>> ignition on, the throttle about half way, and maybe the choke closed
>>> (the first time only). 9 out of 10 times, the crank is the only way my
>>> '48 Cub will
> start.
>>>
>>
>> My F-20 starts pretty well, so does the H. Not hard cranking either one.
>>
>> --
>> Steve W.
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>
>
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