[AT] Easier to Start?

Fri Jul 20 09:16:45 PDT 2012

Tyler,

Find an  oil heater than can be used in place of the oil drain plug.

Dean VP
Snohomish, WA

"Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no path and leave a trail."
- Ralph Waldo Emerson

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
On Behalf Of Tyler Juranek
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 8:44 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?

Hi,
I have a 36 JD A.
I am kinda concerned about it this winter. Since it is so dry now, I have a feeling that
winter will be verry harsh.
I have antifreeze in the radiator along with water, but the oil will be a different story,
since it'll be pretty stiff.
I don't know if I'll have to start it this winter, but how do I get the oil to free itself
up, so it's not so stiff?
On my dad's 50, I don't think we will have to worry about it to much, since it has
electric start.
Take Care,
Tyler

On 7/19/12, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
> Tyler,
>
> Yes, JD provided rather unique short stubs that would fit into the 
> center of the flywheel at one end and then the other end was made to 
> allow the steering wheel to be attached so one could use the steering 
> wheel off the tractor and the little stub to start an electric start 
> tractor. In the very early electric start tractors, 6 volt batteries 
> were used which were under rated to begin with and under any kind of 
> adverse condition they would often fail to perform their starting 
> duties. Battery technology has come a long ways since the late 30's 
> and early 40's as well. On our farm and I suspect many others an old 
> steering wheel was semi-permanently attached to these stubs which were 
> unique for the older letter series and then changed in the late letter 
> series and early numbered series.
> The early
> numbered series were all 12V start tractors and used two 6V batteries 
> wired in series. The early letter series 6V electric start was very 
> marginal and next to useless when the temps dropped below zero.  So 
> hand starting and pulling the tractor with anything else that would 
> start was usually employed. I don't recall starting problems with the 
> early numbered series, in the early 50's  as long as the batteries 
> were charged. That excludes the diesels. Block heaters were required 
> for diesels in NW IA where winter time lows often got into to the -40 
> degrees F range in the 1940's and 1950's. Block heaters even helped a 
> lot for the gas tractors but were not utilized much in the early 40's. 
> Maybe it had to do with the fact that REA (Rural Electrification 
> Association) was in itself quite unreliable in the winter again in the 
> late 30's early 40's.  I recall reading many a book by Kerosene lamp 
> for a few years even after we had REA on the farm. It just wasn't 
> reliable the first few years.
>
> Dean VP
> Snohomish, WA
>
> "Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no path 
> and leave a trail."
> - Ralph Waldo Emerson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
> On Behalf Of Tyler Juranek
> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 4:42 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?
>
> Hi, interesting.
> Wasn't there a way to crank the two cylinder Jd's with electric start 
> as well?
> If anyone knows how to do so, can you please explain?
> Thanks,
> Tyler
>
> On 7/19/12, Steve W. <swilliams268 at frontier.com> wrote:
>> Mike Sloane wrote:
>>> The old Farmall tractors don't care whether you use the crank or the 
>>> starter motor. And it doesn't matter whether they have electric 
>>> ignition or magneto. One advantage of those old Farmall gas engines 
>>> is that they were very, very simple - nothing that you wouldn't 
>>> recognize out of VoTech text book describing generic 4 cylinder 
>>> in-line engines. There was no vacuum advance, nothing sophisticated 
>>> at all. The smaller tractors came with a crank that sat in special 
>>> clips in or on the operator platform, while the larger machines had 
>>> other arrangements. The Cubs, and A/B/C's were very easy to crank, 
>>> but I have never tried to crank an M or H. I think those might be 
>>> more work. Incidentally, when I needed to turn the engine over on my 
>>> Ford 2N, I discovered that the Farmall Cub hand crank fit perfectly.
>>> The only "trick", as others have mentioned, is that you don't just 
>>> spin the handle around. You engage the crank in the "down" position, 
>>> keep your thumb close to your index finger, and pull up smartly on 
>>> the handle. Of course, it also requires that the gas be open, the 
>>> ignition on, the throttle about half way, and maybe the choke closed 
>>> (the first time only). 9 out of 10 times, the crank is the only way 
>>> my
>>> '48 Cub will
> start.
>>>
>>
>> My F-20 starts pretty well, so does the H. Not hard cranking either one.
>>
>> --
>> Steve W.
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
>
>
> --
> Check out my youtube channel, and spread the word!
> http://www.youtube.com/tylerthetechy/
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5141 - Release Date: 
> 07/19/12
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>

--
Check out my youtube channel, and spread the word!
http://www.youtube.com/tylerthetechy/
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at

-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5142 - Release Date: 07/19/12