[AT] Easier to Start?

[charlie hill]

Ben,  your Zenith Carb should have a little brass tag on it.  It's probably 
round with a rivet through the center holding it in place.  There should be 
two sets of numbers stamped into the tag.  They usually are stamped around 
the circumference of the tag with one set of numbers closer to the center 
and the other around the "rim" so to speak.  I forget which one is the one 
you need but copy both of them down and go to this site. 
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/TrackitsF.htm#TracFarm   That should take 
you to a chart with carb information and the kit parts numbers.  The kits 
don't cost that much.  I've never bought from this site.  I just use them 
for reference but I would try them if I needed something I couldn't find 
locally.   Go ahead and get you a kit if you can.  Take the carb apart 
carefully and rebuild it.  Take the adjustment screws out first.  Then 
remove the cap screws that hold the housing halves together.  Be very 
careful removing the brass parts inside the carb.  Make sure you use tools 
that precisely fit the brass tools.   I haven't had a Zenith apart in years. 
I think you'll need a small deep well socket and a couple of GOOD 
screwdrivers.  Get some spray carb cleaner.  That should do unless it's 
really gummed up.  If it is then you might need to borrow someone's gunk 
tank.  Most shops that work on older stuff have one.  Make sure you get all 
the rust and gunk out of the carb.  Run tip cleaners or small wire into the 
small openings but be careful not to break them off in there.  Then wash it 
with solvent, let it dry and blow it out with compressed air.  Wear your 
safety glasses.  Once you are sure it's completely clean, clean it again, 
flush it again and dry it again.  Then put the new parts from the kit in it.
The kit available now don't always have all the parts.  Make sure you know 
what you have in your kit and be careful not to destroy or loose parts you 
might need to reuse.  Put it back back together and set the adjustment 
screws like the directions in the kit say.  Oh I forgot to tell you to be 
very careful with the float.  Shake it.  If you don't hear anything sloshing 
inside it or see anything leaking from it, then it's most likely ok.  Make 
sure to check the throttle shaft bushings.  There should be new ones and a 
new throttle shaft in the kit.

If you do all that correctly and if your fire, timing and compression is 
right it will start easily.   Find a good spot to work on the carb where you 
are working over a table so that if you drop one of those little pieces you 
don't loose it.  Make sure you have good light so you can see it well.

It's not as hard as I've made it sound but I didn't want to leave anything 
out.  If I said something wrong or missed something hopefully someone will 
correct me.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Ben Wagner
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2012 9:03 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group ; Farmall/IHC mailing list
Subject: [AT] Easier to Start?

Good Evening,

It's been awhile since I have had to bring you an issue on my Farmall
Super A.  It has always been hard to start, taking a long time of
cranking (normally two periods of three seconds each) before it will
begin to fire.  Lately, the electrical system has acted up, and I am
trying to start it with a hand crank.  It's great exercise, but not the
greatest use of my time.  It took a good 20 some turns with the hand
crank to get it to start firing tonight.  I'm surprised my arm can still
type!

Is there any sort of "trick" some of you know of to convince a tractor
to start easier with a hand crank?

In case it is important, the Super A has a good magneto, D21 spark
plugs, and a Zenith carb.  It also only runs well on half choke, and
there are no adjustments on the Zenith beyond the idle mixture.  I know
the impulse coupling works, unless I am mistaken.

Thanks for your help.  I'm sure all of you have had the tractor that
won't start well with a hand crank!

Ben Wagner
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