[AT] DC Case

[charlie hill]

I don't know much at all about Case tractors, are you folks saying that they 
had a chain drive?   How was it set up?  Was there a differential?  Please 
explain to me how it worked?

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Gene Dotson
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2012 5:16 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] DC Case

    Good idea on checking the chains. That clunking sound is a warning that
a chain is loose enough to drag the bottom of the housing. Worst case is
when they get loose enough for a link to double back and try to come through
the bottom of the housing and usually succeeds. This will usually happen
when you are on a hard pull in low gear, the worst time!!!

    Several years ago when I first split my 700, I made up a cradle sort of
contraption that bolted under the oil pan with braces going forward to the
cultivator mount holes. This forms a triangle and then I put steel wheels on
the bottom. This way I roll the front half and engine while the rear stays
stationary. Has worked very well.

    Case made a special engine splitting tool that used 2 very long hardened
rods to actually support the entire tractor as it was split apart. Would
allow the tractor halves to spread far enough to remove the clutch and
flywheel without using any other support. Never used or even seen one, but
have heard they work very well.

                        Gene



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john hall" <jtchall at nc.rr.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2012 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] DC Case


> Well Gene, we got it back together today. I bought a new gear since the
> one
> in there was chewed up really bad in 2 places. I also put in a new release
> bearing and changed the front transmission seal. It took a lot of elbow
> grease to get the clutch housing clean inside!
>
> When we split the tractor we rolled the back end. The front end was
> blocked
> under the oil pan. I had the engine hoist on it for safety. It still
> rocked
> too much for my liking so I quickly made a couple of angle iron braces
> that
> bolted to where the oil pan bolts to the clutch housing. That worked out
> real well  today when we went to roll it back together. I used nuts welded
> to the bottom of the angle so I could use a bolt to set the tension. Today
> we needed to twist the engine about 1/8" to get the lone dowel to line up.
> The use of 3 large shoulder bolts is rather impressive--Case wasn't
> cutting
> any corners.
>
> Next is to pull off the disc brakes and clean them and then maybe adjust
> the
> chains in the rear end, the tractor has an occasional clanking sound.
>
> John
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Gene Dotson" <gdotsly at watchtv.net>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 7:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [AT] DC Case
>
>
>>    Just be sure to drain the oil out of the clutch housing. Rest is
>> pretty
>> straight forward.
>>
>> Gene
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "john hall" <jtchall at nc.rr.com>
>> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
>> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 6:39 PM
>> Subject: [AT] DC Case
>>
>>
>>> We've misplaced our service manual for dad's DC Case. Does anyone here
>>> know if there is anything special we need to know about splitting it
>>> into
>>> to flip the starter gear around?
>>> This was going to be tomorrow's project, but I may wait until we get a
>>> manual.
>>>
>>> John Hall
>
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