[AJD] Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 4

David R. Gerber drgerber at fuse.net
Wed Jan 11 08:43:34 PST 2012 

Bill:  I have breakfast once a month with WWII Veterans.  I am their
Chaplain.  Most are WWII Pilots.  They have some incredible stories.  One of
the remaining three or so participants in the Doolittle Raid where they flew
bombers off the USS Hornet to bomb Tokyo and four other cities is a member
of the group.  Tom Griffin was a navigator on one of the planes, ant I have
breakfast with him every month.  I think he is 95 at this time.  One of the
mechanics discussed a problem with lead additives in the gas that caused
plugs to foul.  One of the planes had two rows, radial cylinders, like two
rows of nine, and each cylinder had two plugs, and his crews changed plugs
after every mission to prevent engine failures, and after doing that they
never lost a plane to engine failure.  Of course I made a huge leap over to
the John Deere issue of plug problems.  I stopped purchasing Champion plugs
completely because they just are no longer reliable.  An honest evaluation
would be that most of the fouling is oil related as well as sub standard
Chinese plugs.  I have had better luck running Autolite and a slightly
hotter plug.  I also switched a crawler over to electronic ignition and
pretty much eliminated the problem completely.  Some of the old tractors
with 6v systems will always be a challenge, especially when they use points
and not a magneto.  I seem to have better luck and reliability with mags,
and have lost confidence in the points available today.  Locating better
quality points and plugs would help in keeping the old tractors operational.

Rev. Gerber

-----Original Message-----
From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
Bill Salisbury
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 10:31 AM
To: Antique John Deere mailing list
Subject: Re: [AJD] Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 4

HI Rev. Gerber,

The spark plugs that are in my aircraft engine are Champion REM40E plugs. 
These are all metal, shielded plugs and their cost is something over $25 
each.  These have two side electrodes on them.  Generally, these can be run 
about 500 hours before the electrodes get so worn down that they don't pass 
inspection any longer.  This is a 7 cylinder engine with dual ignition, so 
you can see that a complete spark plug change is not a cheap deal.

Bill

-----Original Message----- 
From: David R. Gerber
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 9:09 AM
To: 'Antique John Deere mailing list'
Subject: Re: [AJD] Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 4

Bill:  What kind/brand of plugs are used in the aircraft engine?

Rev. Gerber

-----Original Message-----
From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
Bill Salisbury
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 6:38 PM
To: Antique John Deere mailing list
Subject: Re: [AJD] Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 4

Rev. Gerber,

I have had no trouble with plug fouling.  There is not enough lead in the
25/75% mix of the Av gas/auto gas to do any serious fouling.  I also have an

airplane with a radial engine in it and lead fouling is never a problem with

that engine either.  Sometimes I will get a fouled plug on one of the lower
cylinders of the aircraft engine if I have not flown it for a while, but
that always cleans up during the runup before take-off.  That, of course, is

due to oil fouling, not lead fouling.

Bill

-----Original Message----- 
From: David R. Gerber
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 4:29 PM
To: 'Antique John Deere mailing list'
Subject: Re: [AJD] Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 4

Does the added lead foul the plugs quicker?  My aviation friends have older
planes that they change the plugs on between flights due to plug fouling.
Just wondering.  I can't find plugs worth much anyway.

Rev. Gerber

-----Original Message-----
From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
Bill Salisbury
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 4:06 PM
To: Antique John Deere mailing list
Subject: Re: [AJD] Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 4

HI Rev. Gerber,

I agree with your machine shop guru.  What causes damage with the valve
seats in some engines is the inability to carry away the heat fast enough.
The cylinder heads on these tractor engines are really quite heavily built
and that cast iron will handle any of the heat that these low output engines

are able to generate, even at full throttle under load all day long.

Cheers!

Bill Salisbury

PS.  I run my old JD 420 only for bush hogging and I do add some 100 LL
aviation fuel to my tank to take advantage of the lead content of that fuel.

The 100 LL has about 4 times the amount of lead in it that auto fuel used to

have in it, so running a 25/75% ratio of that leaded fuel, provides plenty
of lead in the gas.  -----And sometimes I don't add any.  This AV gas is
getting very expensive.

-----Original Message----- 
From: David R. Gerber
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 2:28 PM
To: 'Antique John Deere mailing list'
Subject: Re: [AJD] Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 4

My machine shop guru claims there is no need to put hardened valve seats in
any 2 cylinder engine, unless of course the valve seats need replaced
anyway.  Reason:  the hardened valve seats are only needed in high rpm
performance engines because the unleaded gas burns a little hotter, and over
time damages the valve seats.  Never going to be the case in the low rpm
engines.  He has rebuilt several motors for me, and all continue to perform
without flaw, without hardened valve seats.  His recommendations are
different with the four, six, and eight cylinder engines.

Rev. Gerber

-----Original Message-----
From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
Michael
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 5:29 PM
To: Antique John Deere mailing list
Subject: Re: [AJD] Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 4

I believe that the issue of lead and engine valves is a myth. Amoco ( now
part of BP) premium gasoline ALWAYS has been unleaded. I easily recall the
introduction of the Oldsmobile and Cadillac overhead valve V-8 engines in
1949. The largest and most powerful previous engine for Oldsmobile was
straight-8 used from 1937 to 1948 inclusive. Not considered high performance

nor high compression. The V-8 was, relatively speaking, a powerhouse. Owners

seeking the best from the engine often used Amoco Premium- unleaded. Amoco
even often pictured the Oldsmobile in their ads. I knew some owners who used

the Amoco Premium exclusively. I never ever heard of valve problems
resulting and some of those cars were driven very hard.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "E. Thatcher" <ethatche at hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 1:30 PM
To: <antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AJD] Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 4

>
> I guess it depends on how much you are set on owning something green and
> yellow and what size will fit your needs.  LP and Diesel wil get around
> the problems associated with extended use of no-lead gas in older engines
> although fuel additives or an overhaul to modify the valve train for
> unleaded gas can work.  Allis D-17 and XT series are versitile, economical

> to operate and in the case of the D-17, easy to work on.  Diesels are
> available although not common with the D-17.  Oliver 1600 through 1800
> series and newer, Minneapolis Moline M5 and newer series, Case 730 and
> 830,  IHC 706 and 806, and Massey Ferguson 85, super 90 and 165 and 185
> all will handle at least 4 bottom mounted plows and most will have three
> point hitch.  We switched after years of two cylinder Deeres to an MF 85
> back when my Dad an I were farming together in the mid 60's through the
> eighties and never regretted the move.  The MF 85 had the Ferguson System
> hydraulics and three point hitch and pulled a 5-14!
>  fully mounted plow like a top.  Even though it was a gas model, it was
> very economical to operated and easy to maintain, just right for small to
> medium sized farm.   Good luck with your search. Eric ThatcherSt. Charles,

> MO
> > From: antique-johndeere-request at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> Subject: Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 4
>> To: antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2012 12:00:01 -0500
>>
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>>
>>    1. Re: Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 1; Ad Posting (Troy)
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2012 05:58:21 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
>> From: Troy <tbogdan1 at earthlink.net>
>> Subject: Re: [AJD] Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 1; Ad
>> Posting
>> To: Antique John Deere mailing list
>> <antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Message-ID:
>> <3404952.1326106701368.JavaMail.root at mswamui-billy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the insight Eric,
>>
>> As I have gotten no responses, I don't have to make any choices yet.  I
>> have been looking for the right tractor for a few years now off and on,
>> and have yet to actually find one that I can afford, or is in good
>> condition.  Thanks again, Troy
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >From: "E. Thatcher" <ethatche at hotmail.com>
>> >Sent: Jan 4, 2012 5:19 PM
>> >To: antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> >Subject: Re: [AJD] Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 1; Ad Posting
>> >
>> >
>> >It's been awhile since I posted on the site but I still read the
>> >postings from time-to-time.  Regarding moving to purchase a diesel JD; a

>> >720 or 730 in good condition with factory three point hitch and with the

>> >remote hydraulic cylinder included would be a great choice if you intend

>> >to stay with the cylinder models.  I would prefer the electric start to
>> >the pony start models but that might narrow your choices too much.
>> >Although I'm a life-long two-cylinder fan and have farmed with four of
>> >them over the years since I was a kid (a "B", two "A's" and a "G"), I
>> >would urge you to consider a 3020D or 4020D or newer model of similar
>> >size range if you're going to depend on it for real work over time.  The

>> >3020D will deliver the better economy of the two and will still pull
>> >3-16's or 4-14's anywhere you want and has a more versitile transmission

>> >and hydraulics than the two cylinder models' replacements, the the "10"
>> >series and their successor the "20" series.
>> > Eric ThatcherSt. Charles, MO
>> >_______________________________________________
>> >Antique-johndeere mailing list
>> >http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/antique-johndeere
>>
>>
>>
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>>
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>> End of Antique-johndeere Digest, Vol 82, Issue 4
>> ************************************************
>
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