[AT] MF 2244 crawler with Perkins diesel

[k7jdj at aol.com]

Detroit 71 series engines use dry sleeves and are relatively easy to set liner height using shims between the liner and the block counter bore. Measure before inserting sleeve.  I'm sure that you could Google and see some examples.

Gary
Renton, WA

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Grant Brians <sales at heirloom-organic.com>
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Mon, Dec 10, 2012 3:51 pm
Subject: Re: [AT] MF 2244 crawler with Perkins diesel


I don't know this spcific model, but I do know some things about that engine
series. First, they are moderately available in the tractor junkyards.
Second, as stated by Cecil, getting the sleeves at the proper height is
critical and can be done moderately easily. The propane (or Dry Ice) tricks
are REALLY useful in this type of context.
     My personal advice is that if the undercarraige is in good shape,
suggest the owner sell the tractor to you and have it repaired, then resell.
I think you will make a nice profit. Alternately do the above suggested,
except sell the tractor for someone who wants to fix it.... I will say that
here in California there is a big market for Caterpillar older tractors, but
not much for other brands as Cat is thr preferred brand and remember the
Holt and Best businesses (the inventors of the Crawler Tractor) are both
from here....
          Grant

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]On Behalf Of Cecil R
Bearden
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2012 8:27 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] MF 2244 crawler with Perkins diesel


A3.152 Perkins is a dry sleeve engine. Sleeves are installed with
Loctite.  Sounds like it was sliding in the bore.  I have changed these
sleeves from a broken block to a new one by plugging the bottom end and
filling the sleeve with liquid propane This caused the sleeve to shrink
enough to remove it from the bore.  You can shim the sleeve up at the
top of the head.  The bottom of the sleeve protrudes in to the crankcase
a little.  You can also use a copper ring at the top of the sleeve and a
new gasket and have fairly good luck sealing it.  However, I would bet
that the sleeve has been moving.  I grew up with these engines.  They
are good, but the heads were prone to cracking if overheated and then
fresh water poured in.  If you install a new gasket, run it for about 30
minutes and then tighten the head bolts again.  I have had pretty good
luck with over-torquing the bolts about 10 ft lbs and not re
tightening.  In the late 60's and early 70's, these crawlers were the
cat's meow.  I would have done most anything for one.   I don't know
what dozers sell for where you are, but here that would bring 4 to 5K as
is.    At $220/ ton for long iron, it would have to weigh about 22 tons
to bring that for scrap.  If twas mine I would repair it.  The steering
clutch is not a big issue.

Cecil in OKla

On 12/8/2012 8:54 PM, Ivan wrote:
>     Anybody familar with this crawler with a Perkins AD3.152 engine ?
> The history .
>    I got this kinda dumped on me to repair . It blew the head gasket and
> took the radiator out in the process .  Antifreeze in the oil . The
> owner is not sure how long it ran after the gasket went .A now deceased
> employee had been using it  out at the junk yard so no way to find out
> how long he ran it this way .      His concern is to save it or scrap it
> ,only paid $ 3000 for it .      Also having issues with rh turning  ,,
> sooo  . Could this just be a adjustment ?
>    The liner on # 3 is .006 below the deck ,  which is .002 out of spec .
> Showing some signs of burning on top of it . Head also shows some burn
> marks where the metal ring was supposed to seal the cylinder .  No idea
> of what shape the bottom end is like .
>    # 1
>      Do I slap it together with a new gasket ,change oil and fix the rad
> with the hope ( awfull big)  that it might hold for maybe 10 - 20 hours .
> # 2 Or , drop the pan ,pull # 3 sleeve and shim it up to bring into spec
> .  Then do the head gasket and pray  .
>    How are these sleeves sealed ,  o ring or gasket ? Is it possible to
> pull the sleeve and put it back in with the same seals?
>     # 3   The owner is thinking about selling it for scrap , which is
> probably the best option since he doesnt want to do a full tear down .
> He kinda cringed when I said gaskets , new bearings (rod +main ) .  I
> think if he doesnt go this far its not worth putting back together  .
> And with the gaskets running $ 100 just for the head , the junk man is
> the best option in my book .  How forgiving are these engines ?
>    But I said I'd ask ,as this is the first diesel that I've torn apart .
> SO a lot of learning going on on my part . Ivan
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