[Farmall] 340 Utility hydraulics

[Jim Becker]

I don't think we contradicted each other very much.  I think when we looked 
at the statements:  "I pulled the plate for the filter and the oil was 
white. I know I have water in oil." we drew different conclusions on how 
contaminated the oil is and whether the problem is more from water suspended 
in the oil vs. solid contaminants.  Thus my bigger emphasis on flushing out 
the old oil, yours on cleaning the suction side of the hydraulics.  You 
probably have a better idea than I on the minimum amount of oil to get it to 
circulate.

Neither of us mentioned the orifice in the pressure control circuit.  I 
assume the 340 system has one of them.  I have no idea where it is on that 
model tractor.  It may be a good place to clean first.

By the way, the 240 has a separate hydraulic reservoir.

Jim

-----Original Message----- 
From: Mike Sloane
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 7:38 AM
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
Subject: Re: [Farmall] 340 Utility hydraulics

I would (almost) never want to contradict Jim on anything related to IH
products, since he know far more about them than I would ever hope to
know. But in this case I have to make a correction: The 340 (and the
240) use the transmission and final drive for the hydraulic reservoir
and takes about 6 gallons of Hy-Tran (or equivalent) fluid.

So I suggest draining out as much as you can that is reasonable, change
the filter assembly, and don't worry about the small amount that is left
in the valves, pump, and lines. The hitch cylinder and lines going to
and from it take about a quart, so you might want to make sure the
cylinder is compressed and blow out the lines (a messy job!).

If the hydraulics are "non working", I would start on the suction side
of the system and look for problems such as collapsed suction hose,
clogged filter(s), etc. Then work your way "forward" to the pump,
valves, etc. Pumps and valves do go bad, but my bet would be something
in the suction side.

Binder Books <www.binderbooks,com> has all the IH Blue Ribbon service
manuals for the various parts of the tractor. My opinion is that it is
well worth the money to buy the whole package, as well as the user manual.

Mike

On 8/26/2012 7:11 PM, Jim Becker wrote:
> I thought the 340 hydraulics used oil from the transmission.  If so, you 
> are
> looking at 5 or 6 gallons for a change.  Assuming that is so, I would pull
> the transmission/differential drain plug and give the crud at least over
> night to drain.  Then do a partial refill, enough for the gears and
> hydraulics to be able to pick it up, maybe a couple gallons will do it. 
> Run
> it around some to flush things and drain it again.  Repeat until the oil
> doesn't turn white.  I would use genuine Hy-Tran as it will absorb more
> moisture.  Using something else will require more flushes.
>
> Then you can start working on the hydraulics.  Maybe clean oil will be all
> the hydraulics needs.  Otherwise, clean all the intakes, strainers, filter
> etc. and see if that fixes it.  If it doesn't, then you have real 
> hydraulic
> repairs to diagnose/fix.  Once it is fixed, you will need to cycle the 
> hitch
> and whatever is attached.  You will probably need to change the oil again
> and top it off.
>
> I hate to say it, but sometimes if maintenance is deferred long enough, 
> you
> need to catch up, not just pick up the schedule!
>
> Jim Becker
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: prjones
> Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 5:22 PM
> To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
> Subject: [Farmall] 340 Utility hydraulics
>
> I bought a 340 utility gas with non working hydraulics. I pulled the plate
> for the filter and the oil was white. I know I have water in oil. What
> should be my next step? I hate to drain it and put in 10 quarts of Hytran
> and then have to do it again wasting the oil. any advice or test I can 
> run?

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