[AT] Chain saw sharpening

[Steve W.]

Dick Day wrote:
> You flatter me :)
> 
> The problem is that the chain will not freely spin on the bar, it absolutely 
> cannot be forced to move. It is locked tight as a drum unless the motor is 
> running.   I asked Worx how they would manually sharpen the chain on the saw 
> and they said not to. " It must be removed from the saw".  I realize that I 
> could either sharpen the ones that are accessible on the top of the bar and 
> then plug the saw it and give it a quick burst and hope that the chain will 
> stop at a point that I could sharpen more teeth, or loosen the entire bar 
> and re-position the chain, but just the fact that they categorically said to 
> "remove it for sharpening" caught my attention.
> 
> Can you think of any reason they would flat out say to never sharpen the 
> chain on the saw?   I couldn't understand their logic but must assume they 
> have a good reason.
> 
> Dave, did you get a chance to look at this site?    Twenty-five to $30 for a 
> Worx chain vs. $13 for the Oregon chain.     Seems like a big disparity in 
> price.
> 
> As always, thanks for the feedback.

The newer electric saws have an automatic chain brake that engages when 
you let off the trigger.

The Easy way to sharpen them is to pull the bar/chain off. Clamp the bar 
in a vice and use that to
hold the chain so you can sharpen the teeth. Not a problem. Then once 
your done clean up the chain and bar so none of the filings
cause a problem. Just a fast wipe and running the groove cleaner/putty 
knife through the groove in the bar.

-- 
Steve W.