[AT] Chain saw sharpening

Mon Apr 9 15:27:23 PDT 2012

Good points, thanks. I just ordered the Oregon kit that fits this chain.

Dick

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Mike M" <meulenms at gmx.com>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 9:59 AM
To: "at" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] Chain saw sharpening

> Hi Dick,
> Couple of things, if you are concerned about getting the wrong chain, take 
> yours to a local saw shop and have them match it up to yours, then you'll 
> have a part number for future reference and you can look for deals online. 
> Also as others have said taking the bar off, and clamping it in a vise 
> would work just fine. What I do when I hand sharpen my chain is to take a 
> Sharpie and mark the tooth I start on. Hold the cutter you're sharpening 
> with your fingers  while you file it, to keep it straight. Remember you're 
> only truing up a fairly small cutter and it only takes about 5-6 strokes 
> of the file. The manufacturer of the chain will also state that file you 
> need to sharpen it, I believe the two most common sizes are 7/32" and 
> 3/16" round. Hope this helps.
>
> Mike M
>
>
> ----- Receiving the following content ----- 
> From: Dick Day
> Receiver: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Time: 2012-04-07, 21:56:48
> Subject: Re: [AT] Chain saw sharpening
>
>
> You flatter me :)
>
> The problem is that the chain will not freely spin on the bar, it 
> absolutely
> cannot be forced to move. It is locked tight as a drum unless the motor is
> running. I asked Worx how they would manually sharpen the chain on the saw
> and they said not to. " It must be removed from the saw". I realize that I
> could either sharpen the ones that are accessible on the top of the bar 
> and
> then plug the saw it and give it a quick burst and hope that the chain 
> will
> stop at a point that I could sharpen more teeth, or loosen the entire bar
> and re-position the chain, but just the fact that they categorically said 
> to
> "remove it for sharpening" caught my attention.
>
> Can you think of any reason they would flat out say to never sharpen the
> chain on the saw? I couldn't understand their logic but must assume they
> have a good reason.
>
> Dave, did you get a chance to look at this site? Twenty-five to $30 for a
> Worx chain vs. $13 for the Oregon chain. Seems like a big disparity in
> price.
>
> As always, thanks for the feedback.
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Dave Rotigel" <rotigel at me.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2012 8:33 PM
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] Chain saw sharpening
>
>> Dick, There is NO NEED to take either the chain nor the bar off the saw! 
>> A
>> pair of heavy lether gloves (welding gloves work well) can be used to 
>> hold
>> the chain in place on the bar (on the the saw) while you sharpen it. This
>> IS NOT brain surgery and you are making too big a deal out of it. If I 
>> can
>> do it ANYONE can!
>> Dave
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2012, at 9:14 PM, Dick Day wrote:
>>
>>> Sorry to drag this back out of the deleted folder :)
>>>
>>> It seems that the Worx electric chain saws do not allow you to move the
>>> chain for sharpening. The factory said that the chain must be removed
>>> from
>>> the saw.
>>>
>>> I would really like to sharpen the chains with a file and not go the
>>> electric route. I cannot find an device that holds the chain in place
>>> that
>>> allow for manual filing (similar to the ones used on electric grinders).
>>> Do they make such a thing? Any reason I could not take the bar and
>>> chain
>>> off the saw and use the bar to hold the chain while I sharpen? I'm sure
>>> I'd have to figure a way to keep the chain taught while I sharpen.
>>>
>>> Thoughts?
>>>
>>> Also, the Worx replacement chains run anywhere from $25 to $30 plus
>>> shipping. I contacted Oregon and asked them for the Oregon part number
>>> for
>>> that chain. It must be an odd one because very few places carry it.
>>> It's
>>> a 91VG063G, they also referred to it as a 50RG63. I found an ebay store
>>> located outside Chicago that sells this exact chain for $12.63 plus 
>>> $5.99
>>> shipping on the first one, and $2.00 for each additional item. I for
>>> sure
>>> will buy a few just to have because there is good chance that I may
>>> destroy
>>> one while learning to sharpen. I mention this in case anyone wants to
>>> see
>>> if they carry chains you may need at reduced prices...
>>>
>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/91VG063G-OREGON-CHAIN-CHAIN-LOOP-3-8-050-/280639897247#ht_2723wt_1139
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "Spencer Yost" <yostsw at atis.net>
>>> Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2012 6:46 AM
>>> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
>>> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Chain saw sharpening
>>>
>>>> I used to work for the forest service (as a teenager) and our work
>>>> leaders
>>>> were yoga masters in sharpening. But alas, I was a teenager and didn't
>>>> pay close attention. I fortunately married a woman whose father was
>>>> good
>>>> at sharpening too.
>>>>
>>>> Between the time of the yoga masters and father-in-law I was inept at
>>>> sharpening and tried every gadget and device under the sun. Bottom line
>>>> is if you can't sharpen with just a file, You can't sharpen with this
>>>> year's super gadget", dremel, guide,etc.
>>>>
>>>> Here is what i finally learned from them: Great sharpening is all
>>>> frequency and consistency. Those are learned through practice and
>>>> patience.
>>>>
>>>> I used to stink at this because I have alway stunk at things that can't
>>>> be
>>>> a acquired without cleverness, brute strength and speed. Marriage and
>>>> chain sharpening taught me to appreciate the role of zen in my life.
>>>>
>>>> I swear: You don't need a guide or electricity. I don't use a handle
>>>> either because I like to feel how the file is cutting.
>>>>
>>>> Like the others mentioned too: Do it every tank of fuel.
>>>>
>>>> As was also mentioned before; Don't sharpen a damaged chain though.
>>>> Give
>>>> that to a professional (or just buy a new one as I do).
>>>>
>>>> Hope this helps,
>>>>
>>>> Spencer
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> On Mar 31, 2012, at 21:49, "Dick Day" <ddss at telebeep.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Greetings.
>>>>>
>>>>> I can get the chain sharpened locally for $18. I've seen manual file
>>>>> sets that mount on the bar and allow you to sharpen the chain. I've
>>>>> also
>>>>> seen electric, both 12-volt and 110. The reviews I've read about the
>>>>> electric ones are quick to point out that the cheap ones don't last. I
>>>>> cannot justify $150 and up for a decent one, so I figured I would try
>>>>> my
>>>>> hand at manual sharpening.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have an 18" electric Worx chain saw and love it. The specifics of
>>>>> the
>>>>> chain are gauge=.05 length=18" links=63 pitch=3/8"
>>>>>
>>>>> Can anyone suggest what I should get to sharpen the chain?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>
>>>>> Dick Day
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>>
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