[AT] Shop ceiling
robbrut at aol.com
robbrut at aol.com
Wed Sep 28 03:52:24 PDT 2011
I agree with Mike's blown-in insulation recommendation, and for another reason other than the obvious ones like its ease of installation, R value and filling cavities well.
Mine has to do with critters' (mice, squirrels, bats, flying squirrels) aversion to the blow-in stuff.
When I built my house in the woods, i used fiberglas batt insulation (itchy) an really built up the attic ceiling.
Within a year it was a condo for mice, two years later tha squirrels discovered it. and within ten years, all of the insualtion over the main area was gone, having been pulled to the eaves for huge nests.
I had all of the FG removed, along with the mummified remains of former residents who didn't like the TomCat diet, and replaced it all with loose-fill cellulose (blow-in type).
That was 5 years ago, and I still don't see any disturbance of the cellulose material, nor is there any mouse/squirrel poop to be seen anywhere up there.
I have been told that there are two factors that make vermin dislike it, one is the fireproofing treatment (boric acid) done to the cellulose, and the other is that it sticks to the critters fur and resists tunneling.
By the way, I built a bathouse/condo for my bats who are enjoying their new digs and are still keeping us mosquito-free.
Bruce Thompson
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike 1countryguy <mdo_1 at hotmail.com>
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Wed, Sep 28, 2011 12:38 am
Subject: Re: [AT] Shop ceiling
teel roofing when nailed or screwed in will be strong on 4 ft centers. Blown
nsulation is the easy way to get a lot of r values. Mine has been on ten years
nd no problem. Why go to the time and expense of the waifer board.
> Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 22:51:03 -0400
From: rlgoss at insightbb.com
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] Shop ceiling
I think I would want something a little more substantial to support the
nsulation than just the tin that's used for ceilings. When I built my shop, I
sed OSB for the bottom four feet (laid horizontally.) and TEMPERED peg board
or the top four feet. That lets me hang shelving and tools anywhere above the
our-foot level, and work benches and storage cabinets fill in over the OSB. I
sed standard gypsum drywall for the ceiling. I rented a drywall lift from Home
epot, and installed the whole ceiling in less than half a day all by myself. I
ear you loud and clear on needing to raise and lower whole panels to make sure
he cut outs are in the right location. That's why I rented one that was made
or the job at Home Depot. Just put the panel on the carrier, cut it to shape,
dd the cut outs, flip it to horizontal, and turn the big wheel to clamp the
hole panel to the ceiling.
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Bowen" <don.bowen at earthlink.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 9:17:28 PM
Subject: [AT] Shop ceiling
I was talking with my builder friend this evening about the next step in
my shop. It is a pole building that I put up false walls between the 5
by 5 poles. The walls are 2X4 on 24" centers with roll insulation
between then covered with 7/16" OSB. For the ceiling I put 2X6 joists
between the trusses and was planning on covering with the same OSB. THe
problem soon became obvious. The building is not square, I have 6
lighting outlets, 4 switched plugs for task lighting, and 4 hanging
outlets, all would need holes through the OSB so each sheet may be
lifted two or three times to a 9' 6" ceiling. I had designed a panel
lift for my engine hoist.
Then my friend said that many here use tin. He said I could get No 2
tin and he and I could put it in place in an afternoon. Then I will use
blown in cellulose insulation. It will make a nice warm shop for these
mild Ozark winters.
Any comments on this idea?
--
Don Bowen KI6DIU
http://www.braingarage.com/Dons/Travels/journal/Journal.html
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