[Farmall] Restoration

Tue May 24 20:48:07 PDT 2011

Barney,

Thank you for all your information and experience.  What brand of sprayer
did you use?  You don't happen to remember where you got the spray gun
settings from, do you?

Thanks.

Jerry

On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 7:30 PM, Barney Van De Weert <bbvande at yahoo.com>wrote:

> Use a high volume low pressure gun, I bought a set of 3, primer, paint and
> touch
> up for about $80.00. Make sure you use a good drier on the air line. Also a
> thick layer of paint is not desirable, get the spray pattern set and spray
> until
> you get the coat up to a shine and get away befoe you get tempted to hit it
> one
> more time. If you don't get it up to a shine you'll get an orange peel
> effect,
> any more and you will get runs.
>  Barney Van De Weert
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jerry Bossard <jerry.bossard at gmail.com>
> To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Tue, May 24, 2011 1:58:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] Restoration
>
> Bobcurrie,
>
> Thanks for the information.  I'm mainly going to use the primer for the
> areas that need a little sanding and mainly just repaint the entire
> tractor.
> However, there are some parts that I need to wire brush to the bare metal
> because of small rust spots.  The primer will be used very little, just
> curious to know what others have done.  I think I have decided to spray
> paint the entire tractor with a spray gun and compressor.  I may brush a
> few
> areas, but in the interest of time and since it will be my work tractor, I
> am more interested in getting a couple of good coats of paint on for extra
> durability.
>
> Thanks again for your wealth of information.
>
> Jerry
>
> On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 1:24 PM, Bob Currie <tracturs at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > General rule of thumb Jerry is that you get what you pay for. It might
> help
> > to read the fine print on the can. My guess is that the  restoration
> series
> > paint has a touch more pigment in the mix. As far as primer goes, I kind
> of
> > echo Mike comments. Why are you using primer? Did you take all the old
> > paint
> > off, or just wire brushed or sand it down? There are different kinds of
> > primer, regardless of what color you choose. Filler or "sanding" primer
> is
> > usually marked on the can and I mostly see it in red. It is very sandable
> > and is used to fill minor sanding scratches and the like so your color
> > coats
> > will be nice and smooth and shiny.  If that is not a concern to you, then
> a
> > good non sandable red primer would be fine.  I usually pay a little more
> > and
> > after a good sanding or prep job, I like to use an etching primer. It
> does
> > what a primer is supposed to do, that being add a basic coat to the metal
> > that will help the finish coats of paint adhere and flow out nice and
> > smooth. That rule doesn't apply to the casted parts you might paint,
> since
> > they aren't smooth to start with. I've had very decent luck painting
> those
> > surfaces with no sanding, just wire brushing or sand blasting, and using
> a
> > good paint brush. The paint will flow out fairly good and you won't see
> any
> > brush marks. So....good luck on your project and let us know how it's
> > working out.
> >
> > bobcurrie
> > Greenwood, CA
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jerry Bossard" <jerry.bossard at gmail.com>
> > To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2011 10:01 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Farmall] Restoration
> >
> >
> > > Does anyone know the difference between Valspar Restoration Series
> > Tractor
> > > &
> > > Implement Finish versus Valspar Tractor & Implement Finish paints?  Is
> > one
> > > really better than the other?  The price difference at Tractor Supply
> is
> > > $53.00 for restoration series and $37.00 for the other.  $16.00
> > > difference!
> > > Both are High Gloss.
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 11:38 AM, Jerry Bossard
> > > <jerry.bossard at gmail.com>wrote:
> > >
> > >> Carl,
> > >>
> > >> Thank you for that information!  That helps a bunch.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks,
> > >>
> > >> Jerry
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 11:20 AM, <szabelsk at gdls.com> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> The red primer is usually for rusty metal, not clean metal. Read the
> > >>> label
> > >>> and see it that's what it says.
> > >>>
> > >>> Also, a gray primer usually requires fewer top coats of red to obtain
> a
> > >>> good deep color.
> > >>>
> > >>> Red is a hard color to paint with. The pigment is usually thin and
> lets
> > >>> the primer underneath show through. Colors other than gray seem to
> > bleed
> > >>> through red pretty easily.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> Carl Szabelski
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
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