[AT] [Farmall] Engine Overheating

[charlie hill]

Ben,  generally a small crack between the cyl. won't cause that problem but 
it's possible.  Start with the simple things first.  Make sure the radiator 
and hoses are good.  Make sure the fan belt isn't slipping, etc.  With the 
tractor not running grab the fan by one of the blades and see if you can 
easily turn it.  If so your belt isn't tight enough or the belt or pulley is 
worn out.   Without a timing light here is what to look for on your timing. 
With the distributor bolt loose just enough that you can turn the 
distributor and the engine running at high idle the distributor slowly in 
each direction.  If you turn it far enough one way engine will start to run 
poorly and stumble a little.  If you turn it far enough the other way the 
exhaust note will start to go from mellow to more of a BLATT sound.  If you 
are to near that BLAT sound it'll run hot.  Somewhere about mid way between 
the two is right.  That is just a down and dirty, get by in a jam way to 
tell.  Best to get a timing light and do it correctly.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Ben Wagner
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2011 8:29 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group ; Farmall/IHC mailing list
Subject: Re: [AT] [Farmall] Engine Overheating

Thanks for your input, Mike.  You have a lot of good points to consider.

What are the symptoms of wrong timing?  My engine starts dependably on the
first crank and runs like a top.  I would think that he timing can't be too
far off, otherwise the tractor wouldn't run as good as it does.

As to clogs in the tubes and radiator fins, I can vouch for sure that they
are clean.  I had the radiator off just a couple of weeks ago, but it was
clean even before I took it apart.  The only thing interesting was a
selection of cooled melted lead from the bottom of the radiator.  I guess
that was leftover solder?

There is a crack in the block between cylinders 2 and 3.  I haven't seen it,
since I didn't take the engine apart, but the previous owner found it only
with a crack detector at a machine shop.  Hairline crack.  Could the crack
leak exhaust into the cooling jacket?

I need to find an infra red thermometer, since it seems that will help pin
point the problem.

Ben Wagner

On Tue, Jul 26, 2011 at 5:45 PM, Mike Sloane <mikesloane at verizon.net> wrote:

> There are a LOT of reasons for a thermosyphon equipped engine to run
> hot, not just crud in the block:
>
>  - Timing too far advanced
>  - Cracked/warped head
>  - Blown head gasket
>  - Loose fan belt
>  - Clogged radiator tubes
>  - Clogged radiator fins
>  - Collapsed lower hose
>  - etc.
>
> Take a look at the spark plugs - on an inline 4 cylinder engine, No. 4
> is usually the one that gets the hottest, especially when there is crud
> in the cooling system. If all the plugs look about the same, your
> problem may not be with crud. If you can borrow or find an infrared
> thermometer, that is something that is very handy for checking block
> temperatures. They used to be expensive, but I was able to pick one up
> for about $25 recently. They are also handy for checking the temperature
> of ignition coils, radiators, coolant temperature, hydraulic reservoirs,
> etc.
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/infrared-thermometer-93984.html> and
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-laser-thermometer-96451.html>
> are two examples, but I am sure you can find others.
>
> Once you have eliminated all of the above, you can try various cooling
> system cleaner/flush products, although I am told that the current
> formulations are all but useless due to concerns about "product safety".
> The old stuff was mostly lye (I believe). There may be better compounds
> that only radiator, coil cleaning, engine rebuilders, and similar shops
> can buy.
>
> There is one thing you can do before hauling the block down to the shop
> for "boiling out": you can remove all of the expansion plugs (also
> called "core" plugs), dig as much crud out as possible with whatever
> tools will fit, and then force air and/or water through those holes. The
> plugs are easy enough to remove with an awl or ice pick, and getting new
> ones back in isn't difficult (I use a socket turned backwards with a 6"
> extension, and tap them with a hammer, but I have seen some mechanics
> just set them with a ball peen hammer). Core plugs are cheap and come in
> standard sizes, so replacing them is not only inexpensive but a good
> idea on any old engine.
>
> Here is an image of my Ford block with the plugs removed. I was taking
> the engine out anyway to have it worked on.
> <
> http://public.fotki.com/mikesloane/1946_ford_2n/2n_overhaul_4_4_05_08.html
> >
>
> Mike
>
> On 7/26/2011 3:58 PM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > I'm suspecting that my Farmall A is running very hot.  The coolant boils
> > even after running the engine for 10 minutes, and the block can burn an
> > unsuspecting hand.  I can run my Super A for the same amount of time, 
> > but
> > the A is much hotter afterwards.  Part could be the engine, I know, but
> I'm
> > also wondering if there isn't built-up deposits inside the engine that
> > blocks the coolant flow.  This is a thermosyphon system.
> >
> > Is there any way to clean the cooling system in the block without taking
> the
> > engine apart?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> > _______________________________________________
> > Farmall mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
> >
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