[Farmall] [AT] Engine Overheating

[Frank Morrow]

Check your exhaust manifold on the block side.  It may have a small rusted
out hole in it  and is exhausting direct onto the engine.
Frank
On Wed, Jul 27, 2011 at 7:29 AM, Ben Wagner <supera1948 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks for your input, Mike.  You have a lot of good points to consider.
>
> What are the symptoms of wrong timing?  My engine starts dependably on the
> first crank and runs like a top.  I would think that he timing can't be too
> far off, otherwise the tractor wouldn't run as good as it does.
>
> As to clogs in the tubes and radiator fins, I can vouch for sure that they
> are clean.  I had the radiator off just a couple of weeks ago, but it was
> clean even before I took it apart.  The only thing interesting was a
> selection of cooled melted lead from the bottom of the radiator.  I guess
> that was leftover solder?
>
> There is a crack in the block between cylinders 2 and 3.  I haven't seen
> it,
> since I didn't take the engine apart, but the previous owner found it only
> with a crack detector at a machine shop.  Hairline crack.  Could the crack
> leak exhaust into the cooling jacket?
>
> I need to find an infra red thermometer, since it seems that will help pin
> point the problem.
>
> Ben Wagner
>
> On Tue, Jul 26, 2011 at 5:45 PM, Mike Sloane <mikesloane at verizon.net>
> wrote:
>
> > There are a LOT of reasons for a thermosyphon equipped engine to run
> > hot, not just crud in the block:
> >
> >  - Timing too far advanced
> >  - Cracked/warped head
> >  - Blown head gasket
> >  - Loose fan belt
> >  - Clogged radiator tubes
> >  - Clogged radiator fins
> >  - Collapsed lower hose
> >  - etc.
> >
> > Take a look at the spark plugs - on an inline 4 cylinder engine, No. 4
> > is usually the one that gets the hottest, especially when there is crud
> > in the cooling system. If all the plugs look about the same, your
> > problem may not be with crud. If you can borrow or find an infrared
> > thermometer, that is something that is very handy for checking block
> > temperatures. They used to be expensive, but I was able to pick one up
> > for about $25 recently. They are also handy for checking the temperature
> > of ignition coils, radiators, coolant temperature, hydraulic reservoirs,
> > etc.
> > <http://www.harborfreight.com/infrared-thermometer-93984.html> and
> > <http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-laser-thermometer-96451.html>
> > are two examples, but I am sure you can find others.
> >
> > Once you have eliminated all of the above, you can try various cooling
> > system cleaner/flush products, although I am told that the current
> > formulations are all but useless due to concerns about "product safety".
> > The old stuff was mostly lye (I believe). There may be better compounds
> > that only radiator, coil cleaning, engine rebuilders, and similar shops
> > can buy.
> >
> > There is one thing you can do before hauling the block down to the shop
> > for "boiling out": you can remove all of the expansion plugs (also
> > called "core" plugs), dig as much crud out as possible with whatever
> > tools will fit, and then force air and/or water through those holes. The
> > plugs are easy enough to remove with an awl or ice pick, and getting new
> > ones back in isn't difficult (I use a socket turned backwards with a 6"
> > extension, and tap them with a hammer, but I have seen some mechanics
> > just set them with a ball peen hammer). Core plugs are cheap and come in
> > standard sizes, so replacing them is not only inexpensive but a good
> > idea on any old engine.
> >
> > Here is an image of my Ford block with the plugs removed. I was taking
> > the engine out anyway to have it worked on.
> > <
> >
> http://public.fotki.com/mikesloane/1946_ford_2n/2n_overhaul_4_4_05_08.html
> > >
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > On 7/26/2011 3:58 PM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I'm suspecting that my Farmall A is running very hot.  The coolant
> boils
> > > even after running the engine for 10 minutes, and the block can burn an
> > > unsuspecting hand.  I can run my Super A for the same amount of time,
> but
> > > the A is much hotter afterwards.  Part could be the engine, I know, but
> > I'm
> > > also wondering if there isn't built-up deposits inside the engine that
> > > blocks the coolant flow.  This is a thermosyphon system.
> > >
> > > Is there any way to clean the cooling system in the block without
> taking
> > the
> > > engine apart?
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > Ben Wagner
> > > _______________________________________________
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> > >
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-- 
Frank Morrow
Associate Broker, GRI
Coldwell Banker, Graben Real Estate, Inc.
FraMorrow at gmail.com
PH 256-586-2717
Working today for your toMORROW