[Farmall] Engine Overheating

[john hall]

I'm with Mike on this in thinking the problem may be more than a gunky 
cooling system. It certainly won't hurt to flush the coolant system. I'd do 
it several times with just water and then maybe add a "flush" product. If 
that doesn't work I would check the timing then go from there. Have you or 
the previous owner dumped in a bunch of stop leak at some point?

John Hall

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Sloane" <mikesloane at verizon.net>
To: <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>; "Antique tractor email discussion 
group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2011 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Engine Overheating


> There are a LOT of reasons for a thermosyphon equipped engine to run
> hot, not just crud in the block:
>
>  - Timing too far advanced
>  - Cracked/warped head
>  - Blown head gasket
>  - Loose fan belt
>  - Clogged radiator tubes
>  - Clogged radiator fins
>  - Collapsed lower hose
>  - etc.
>
> Take a look at the spark plugs - on an inline 4 cylinder engine, No. 4
> is usually the one that gets the hottest, especially when there is crud
> in the cooling system. If all the plugs look about the same, your
> problem may not be with crud. If you can borrow or find an infrared
> thermometer, that is something that is very handy for checking block
> temperatures. They used to be expensive, but I was able to pick one up
> for about $25 recently. They are also handy for checking the temperature
> of ignition coils, radiators, coolant temperature, hydraulic reservoirs,
> etc.
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/infrared-thermometer-93984.html> and
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-laser-thermometer-96451.html>
> are two examples, but I am sure you can find others.
>
> Once you have eliminated all of the above, you can try various cooling
> system cleaner/flush products, although I am told that the current
> formulations are all but useless due to concerns about "product safety".
> The old stuff was mostly lye (I believe). There may be better compounds
> that only radiator, coil cleaning, engine rebuilders, and similar shops
> can buy.
>
> There is one thing you can do before hauling the block down to the shop
> for "boiling out": you can remove all of the expansion plugs (also
> called "core" plugs), dig as much crud out as possible with whatever
> tools will fit, and then force air and/or water through those holes. The
> plugs are easy enough to remove with an awl or ice pick, and getting new
> ones back in isn't difficult (I use a socket turned backwards with a 6"
> extension, and tap them with a hammer, but I have seen some mechanics
> just set them with a ball peen hammer). Core plugs are cheap and come in
> standard sizes, so replacing them is not only inexpensive but a good
> idea on any old engine.
>
> Here is an image of my Ford block with the plugs removed. I was taking
> the engine out anyway to have it worked on.
> <http://public.fotki.com/mikesloane/1946_ford_2n/2n_overhaul_4_4_05_08.html>
>
> Mike
>
> On 7/26/2011 3:58 PM, Ben Wagner wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I'm suspecting that my Farmall A is running very hot.  The coolant boils
>> even after running the engine for 10 minutes, and the block can burn an
>> unsuspecting hand.  I can run my Super A for the same amount of time, but
>> the A is much hotter afterwards.  Part could be the engine, I know, but 
>> I'm
>> also wondering if there isn't built-up deposits inside the engine that
>> blocks the coolant flow.  This is a thermosyphon system.
>>
>> Is there any way to clean the cooling system in the block without taking 
>> the
>> engine apart?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Ben Wagner
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