[AT] Ford 1841 fuel problem

pga2 at BasicISP.net pga2 at BasicISP.net
Thu Jul 21 06:57:18 PDT 2011


Ben,
There used to be a couple of other options. I am at work right now and
cannot remember the names, but one was an individual that sells the parts
you need as well as wiring harnesses and some other electrical items,
including spark plugs. If no one else answers by tonight, I will post
what I have at home.

Phil

--- supera1948 at gmail.com wrote:

From: Ben Wagner <supera1948 at gmail.com>
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] Ford 1841 fuel problem
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 08:27:35 -0400

I've been thinking about purchasing a good magneto kit.  New points,
condenser, etc.  Does anyone know where a high quality kit can be found for
an IH H4?  I was disappointed in the quality of the kit I purchased from
Valu-Bilt; the new rotor's attachment notch broke after I tried to start the
tractor.  It was probably made in China like all the other junk you get
these days.  I'd like to find a kit comparable to the original magneto,
since the Case IH kits I've seen are the same junk.  I'd suspect that
Steiner and ASAP has the same kits too.  Has anyone found a kit that will
last?

Ben Wagner

On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 4:44 PM, Gene Dotson <gdotsly at watchtv.net> wrote:

>    I agree with Henry. I once had an Allis that acted the same way. After
> cleaning the carburetor 3 times and no improvement, I replaced the
> condensor
> and tractor ran perfect afterwards. Your symptoms don't sound like a vacuum
> leak to me. Condensors heat up very quickly and will shut down in a very
> short time.
>
>                        Gene
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "henry7638 at gmail.com" <hank at millerfarm.com>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> >
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 2:08 PM
> Subject: Re: [AT] Ford 1841 fuel problem
>
>
> > Others have made good suggestions, but it has been my general experience
> > that most problems that seem like fuel are actually electrical/spark
> > problems. A little corrosion over time and you no longer have good spark.
> >
> > Don't overlook anything.
> > --
> > Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
> >
> > Lew Best <lew at lewslittlefarm.com> wrote:
> >
> > Got a problem that's really baffling me. I drove my Ford 1841 (gas) into
> > the
> > shop to change out its cable steering set-up to a conventional one. It
> sat
> > a
> > couple of months & suddenly when I pulled it out the only way it'll run
> is
> > with the choke pulled mostly out & then only for a short time. I drove it
> > about 60 or so feet to its "new parking place" & had to fully choke &
> > restart it 3 times.
> >
> > I've since cleaned out the gas tank, replaced the internal strainer,
> > cleaned
> > out the carb, replaced the manifold (it had a hole burned in the exhaust
> > portion) replaced the gasket between the carb & intake (I don't know WHY
> > they don't include this with a carb kit or the new manifold), but it
> still
> > acts exactly the same as it did when I pulled it out of the shop.
> >
> > I'm thinking vacuum leak but with all new gaskets, etc. it really has me
> > baffled. It is gravity feed so I'm thinking about putting an electric
> pump
> > on it (fuel flow to carb seems adequate though) but they do cost about 45
> > bux these days so would prefer to leave it gravity since it used to run
> > fine
> > that way.
> >
> > Anyone have a "good trick" for locating vacuum leaks? I'm told that WD40
> > is
> > re-formulated so just spraying it around (used to cause a speed change
> > when
> > you hit the leak) don't work anymore.
> >
> > Any insight appreciated!!!!!
> >
> >
> >
> > Lew near Waco, TX
> >
> >
> >
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