[AT] Question OT

Ben Wagner supera1948 at gmail.com
Tue Jul 12 15:04:09 PDT 2011


Since we are off topic on gardening, here's a question for the apple tree
owners.  I have three old apple trees, all different types, planted nearly
thirty years ago.  I pruned them this spring, resulting in great blossoms,
but now I have apple rust.  I know the apples this year are history, but how
can I prevent or treat this problem in the future?  I have read that
cedar/juniper trees spread the rust in the cycle, but I cannot pull up all
the cedars in the radius; my part of VA is coated with them.  Can I treat
the trees to prevent the rust?

Thanks!

Ben Wagner

On Tue, Jul 12, 2011 at 9:34 AM, Dave Rotigel <rotigel at me.com> wrote:

> See also: http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1059/ANR-1059.pdf
>         Dave
>
> On Jul 11, 2011, at 6:38 PM, Richard Fink Sr wrote:
>
> > Thanks Spencer-Al-Mark and David.
> > Will try them all.
> > R Fink
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "David Bruce" <davidbruce at yadtel.net>
> > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <
> at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> > >
> > Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 11:21 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AT] Question OT
> >
> >
> >> Yes BER (blossom end rot) is a reaction to lack of calcium uptake
> >> in the
> >> fruit.  Thus the limestone.  Of course if there is no moisture in
> >> the
> >> soil that will reduce the calcium uptake as well - thus the
> >> recommendation for lots of mulch.  A lack of magnesium can also
> >> impede
> >> calcium uptake thus the ofter recommended addition of Epsom Salts
> >> (magnesium sulfate).
> >>
> >> Note the addition of calcium and magnesium take time to be
> >> effective so
> >> for a "quick fix" the mulch and regular watering will help any new
> >> fruits but once a fruit has BER it has BER - the same thing can
> >> affect
> >> peppers and eggplant as well.
> >>
> >> Old school as we know isn't so bad after all <g>.
> >>
> >> David
> >> NW NC
> >>
> >> On 7/10/2011 9:33 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> >>> The hot and dry probably is forcing you into heavy watering.  My
> >>> father
> >>> in law, a much better gardener than I will ever dream to be,
> >>> helped me
> >>> cure by mulching and regular bone meal.  Mulch helped prevent
> >>> leaching of
> >>> nutrients, such as calcium, by reducing heavy watering.  The bone
> >>> meal
> >>> was fast absorbing and seemed to save the last of the crop.   He
> >>> then
> >>> instructed me to increase my use of  dolomitic lime in the fall
> >>> tilling.
> >>>
> >>> Haven't seen blossom end rot since.   Of course this is old school
> >>> stuff
> >>> and nowadays on the Internet I am sure there are more up-to-date
> >>> solutions.  But it worked for me.
> >>>
> >>> Hope this helps,
> >>>
> >>> Spencer
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >>> On Jul 10, 2011, at 18:46, "Richard Fink Sr"<rfinksr at verizon.net>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> I believe that there are many on the list that know about farming.
> >>>> I have a problem with tomatoes, growing ok, but when they get
> >>>> about the
> >>>> size of a 50 cnt piece they get a black spot where the blossom
> >>>> would be.
> >>>> Have been told this is blossom rot and to treat with lime????.
> >>>> Have had
> >>>> no luck with that, it has been dry and hot here this summer all
> >>>> help
> >>>> wanted.
> >>>> Thanks
> >>>> R Fink
> >>>> PA
> >>>> _______________________________________________
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> >>>
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