[Farmall] [AT] A Few Questions now Farmall Exhaust Lifts

Thu Jul 7 05:28:19 PDT 2011

First off, if you want to know anything about the exhaust lifts, post on the
Yesterday's Tractors forum, under Farmall, and wait for Gene Bender to
answer.  He knows much more than anyone else on how to work on this lifts,
and if you post about exhaust lifts he is there with an answer.  He has a
couple working lifts on B's also.  Your best bet is to post there and speak
with Mr. Bender.

As to the hose: the hose on my lift is probably car heater hose.  I think
any hose that can take the pressure would work, because there is no constant
heat flowing through it.   You'll just want something to be able to take the
pressure and thick enough to resist a puncture.  If you are mounting the
lift on the cultivators (left side of the grill) the hose routes under the
gas tank.  When you put pressure on my hose, it tries to straighten out,
pushing against the point of the lift spring.  Your hose will want to do the
same thing, so get a hose that can take the point without breaking.

Don't get the hose too long!  I had a hose that was too long, and when I put
pressure on it, the hose pushed against my fuel strainer, resulting in a
nasty leak... the only other option is to strap the hose to the front of the
gas tank, but I didn't have too much success that way.

I used clamps (the same type used on the radiator hoses) to attach the hose
to the cylinder/control valve.

One piece of advice I'll pass on from Mr. Bender is for you to consistently
keep the control valve rockshaft oiled.  Otherwise the lift will let the
pressure out and not allow the pressure to build back up.  It will seem
tight, and it should be, but work it back and forth before using it and it
should be fine.  Replace the rubber seal in the control valve, I got mine
from Joe's Farmall, since it disintegrates over time.

Take the cylinder apart and oil the leather seal very well and reassemble
it.  This helps it work smoothly.  Put oil in through the hole on the top
every time you run the tractor; the manual says every day!  If you don't run
the tractor often, put oil in once a week or so.

Especially make sure the valve on the manifold works freely, otherwise you
will get no pressure.

Ben Wagner

On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 8:57 PM, Craig Warner <craig.warner47346 at frontier.com
> wrote:

> I have a 1944 Farmall B with the exhaust lift and cultivators. I've toyed
> with the idea of hooking up the exhaust lift and I have all of the parts
> but
> the hose. Is there any particular type of hose/fitting that should be used
> to hook this up? Given the heat etc., I wasn't sure what type of hose to
> use. Would a hydraulic hose work?
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ben Wagner" <supera1948 at gmail.com>
> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2011 1:59 PM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] [AT] A Few Questions now Farmall Exhaust Lifts
>
>
> > Some parts will be worth significantly more than others.  I know, because
> > I
> > tried to find a few parts for my project and came up empty handed.  I
> > could
> > find the leather seal (Case Original Parts) and the gaskets, but nothing
> > else except at salvage yards.  Some parts I had to make.
> >
> > Ben Wagner
> >
> >
> > On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 1:04 PM, Paul Bazzetta <bazzetta at execpc.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >> I have some old exhaust lift parts in storage. a cylinder or two and
> some
> >> pulleys and maybe a box of old valves and pull knobs.  All well used.  I
> >> have no idea what they are worth. If anyone is interested in them, drop
> >> me a
> >> line and I'd be willing to go take photos and exchange info.
> >>
> >> Paul
> >> bazzetta at execpc(dot)com
> >>
> >>
> >> On Jul 6, 2011, at 11:25 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >>
> >> > Thanks!  The manual is for exactly the same model I've got.
> >> >
> >> > Here's another link to what looks like the same manual from another
> >> website
> >> > in PDF:
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/1917631/pneumatic-lift-all-pdf-may-18-2010-4-33-am-605k?da=y
> >> >
> >> > From: http://farmall.winnfreenet.com/downloads.php
> >> >
> >> > Ben Wagner
> >> >
> >> > On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 12:05 PM, E. John Puckett
> >> > <ejpuckett at centurytel.net>wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> I do not own anything with an exhaust lift, but here is a link to a
> >> >> manual for one.  It may not be the same model you have though.
> >> >> http://home.centurytel.net/ejpuckett/exhaust%20lift/
> >> >>
> >> >> On 7/6/2011 7:49 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> >>> You are probably right; the Stanley may not be original.  I have
> >> >>> heard
> >> >>> somewhere along the way that Stanley made IH Mufflers, but I can't
> >> >>> find
> >> >>> where.  I've got the book here that claims Hayes or Mackensie made
> >> >>> the
> >> >> Super
> >> >>> Series mufflers, but it doesn't mention what the Letter Series used.
> >> >>> I
> >> >>> would think the original muffler would be on this tractor, since the
> >> >> tractor
> >> >>> is original in all parts; I also think the original owner purchased
> >> >>> the
> >> >>> muffler option with the tractor, since he could spend the money for
> >> >>> an
> >> >>> exhaust lift.
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Does anyone know how many of those "Lift All" exhaust lifts for the
> >> >> Farmall
> >> >>> B and A were made?  How many exist in working condition today?
>  Speak
> >> up
> >> >> if
> >> >>> you have one; I'd enjoy hearing from other owners.
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Ben Wagner
> >> >>>
> >> >>> On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 7:10 PM, Darrell Ratliff<
> >> dbigdog at columbus.rr.com
> >> >>> wrote:
> >> >>>
> >> >>>> The Stanley is likely not an original muffler.  It would have had
> an
> >> IH
> >> >>>> embossed on it somewhere.  Seeing no baffles is normal.  Most
> >> >>>> tractor
> >> >>>> mufflers don't have them.
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> From: Ben Wagner
> >> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 6:57 PM
> >> >>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> >> >>>> Subject: Re: [AT] A Few Questions: Mufflers
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> I took the muffler off to take a look, and I can shine a light in
> at
> >> one
> >> >>>> end.  Looking in from the other end, I see no baffles.  I take it
> >> >>>> this
> >> >>>> muffler is the equivalent of straight pipe exhaust!  This old
> >> >>>> muffler
> >> >> was
> >> >>>> made presumably with the tractor, since it is a Stanley.
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> I look up in the muffler, and I see little fingers about 1/2 inch
> >> >>>> long
> >> >> all
> >> >>>> the way up.  Is this the way the Stanley mufflers were made,
> without
> >> >>>> baffles?
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> Ben Wagner
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 10:09 AM, Mike Sloane<
> mikesloane at verizon.net>
> >> >>>> wrote:
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>>> I don't know much about Farmall A tractors, but there are muffler,
> >> and
> >> >>>>> there are mufflers - some of the ones sold today are nothing but
> >> >>>>> tin
> >> >>>>> cans with pipes on both ends, while others have proper baffles
> that
> >> (if
> >> >>>>> correctly arranged) do a pretty good job of quieting engine sound.
> >> >>>>> If
> >> >>>>> you have an OEM muffler that sounds loud, it may be that the
> >> >>>>> baffles
> >> >>>>> have simply eroded to nothing over the last 65 years.
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>> As far as the surging, that suggests attention needs to be paid to
> >> the
> >> >>>>> governor.
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>> For the clutch adjustment and other similar issues, I always
> >> recommend
> >> >>>>> that you go to Binder Books<www.binderbooks.com>  and obtain a
> >> service
> >> >>>>> manual for the tractor.
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>> Mike
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>> On 7/5/2011 9:52 AM, Ben Wagner wrote:
> >> >>>>>> Hi everyone,
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>>> I've got a few questions concerning my 1945 Farmall A.  I just
> >> started
> >> >>>>>> it
> >> >>>>> up
> >> >>>>>> for the first time in four months yesterday after a paint job.
> >> >>>>>> I'll
> >> >>>>> number
> >> >>>>>> the questions so that they are easier to reference.
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>>> 1.  The tractor runs fabulously.  It starts right up, even after
> >> >>>> sitting
> >> >>>>> for
> >> >>>>>> four months, and is the most dependable engine I could want in an
> >> old
> >> >>>>>> tractor.  My only objection is that the engine surges whenever I
> >> >> adjust
> >> >>>>> the
> >> >>>>>> throttle, unless I slowly creep the throttle up or down.  The
> >> surging
> >> >>>>> stops
> >> >>>>>> if I slow the engine down.  My other tractor, the 1948 Super A,
> >> >>>>>> will
> >> >>>>>> also
> >> >>>>>> surge but only when the choke is not adjusted at exactly 1/2
> >> >>>>>> choke.
> >> >>>>  The
> >> >>>>>> 1945 A will not run well unless the choke is completely open.
> >>  Because
> >> >>>>> the
> >> >>>>>> engine on the 1945 A runs so well, I hesitate to do any
> >> >>>>>> adjustments
> >> on
> >> >>>>> the
> >> >>>>>> carb.  Does anyone have any advice?  I can live with the surging,
> >> even
> >> >>>>>> though it is a little irritating, but I would like to be able to
> >> >>>> advance
> >> >>>>> the
> >> >>>>>> throttle without the concern of the surging.
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>>> 2.  I used the tractor this winter before a paint job for snow
> >> >> removal.
> >> >>>>>  I
> >> >>>>>> remember thinking that the engine sounded incredibly loud.
> >>  Yesterday,
> >> >>>> I
> >> >>>>> had
> >> >>>>>> both tractors out, and the 1945 engine sounds much louder than
> the
> >> >> 1948
> >> >>>>>> Super A.  I'm wondering if the muffler is working, since the
> >> >>>>>> muffler
> >> >> is
> >> >>>>>> original "Stanley" vintage.  Is there any way to clean the soot
> >> >>>>>> out
> >> of
> >> >>>>> the
> >> >>>>>> muffler, without taking it to a muffler shop?
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>>> On the other hand, if the muffler is fine, which is something I
> >> >>>>>> may
> >> >>>> test
> >> >>>>>> soon with my other tractor, what would make the engine sound like
> >> >>>>>> a
> >> >> two
> >> >>>>>> cylinder?  It has a distinctive "putt-putt" versus the smoothness
> >> >>>>>> of
> >> >>>> the
> >> >>>>>> Super A, although the Super A is not as good an engine.  Like I
> >> >>>>> mentioned, I
> >> >>>>>> really don't want to mess with the engine since it runs so well.
> >>  I'm
> >> >>>>>> halfway wondering if the modern ethanol gasoline is part of the
> >> >>>> problem!
> >> >>>>>> But then again, the muffler could not be working, causing me to
> >> >>>>>> hear
> >> >>>> the
> >> >>>>>> pure engine firing.
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>>> 3.  This question is for anyone who has adjusted, or knows how to
> >> >>>>>> adjust,
> >> >>>>> a
> >> >>>>>> Farmall A, B, or C series clutch.  The clutch only begins
> grabbing
> >> >> when
> >> >>>>> the
> >> >>>>>> pedal is about 1/2 to 1 inch from being completely up.  There is
> >> >>>>>> no
> >> >>>>>> freeplay.  How can I adjust the clutch to give me a little
> >> >>>>>> freeplay
> >> >> and
> >> >>>>>> a
> >> >>>>>> longer engagement travel?
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>>> Thanks for your help.
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>>> Ben Wagner
> >> >>>>>> _______________________________________________
> >> >>>>>> AT mailing list
> >> >>>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>> _______________________________________________
> >> >>>>> AT mailing list
> >> >>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >> >>>> AT mailing list
> >> >>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >> >>>> AT mailing list
> >> >>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >> >>>>
> >> >>> _______________________________________________
> >> >>> Farmall mailing list
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> >> >>>
> >> >>>
> >> >>>
> >> >> _______________________________________________
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> >> >>
> >> > _______________________________________________
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> >> >
> >>
> >>
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