[Farmall] shop time

[Dale]

I have the parts, operators and service manuals for the SA, but will have to dig deeper for the info on the C123 engine, if that is what I have.  We'll see.  Do you know if there are seperate ones for the C113 and 123 engines?

As for the grill, I am fortunate that the shop I am working in is both a mechanic shop and a body shop.  So in addition to having folks that might be able to do some of this stuff, I am hoping to get better at doing it myself.  I really would like to learn how to weld, for example.  I think one of the two grills MIGHT be able to be pounded back into shape, but I will need to clean it up to see how much past repair has been done, and what can be done now.  In any event, it might be fun to visit a couple of these salvage yards!

Both the SA's were already converted to 12V.  One, the new Bubba, has an ignition KEY installed with a solenoid (I assume) between it and the starter, thus there is no starter rod with the rocker-type start button on top of the starter.  The other SA has the normal pull-type start switch, with the starter rod connected to the switch on top of the starter.  Do you have an opinion for which is preferable.  Although I MIGHT want to take the SA (and the Cub, Bertha) sometime to a cub/SA-fest I do not pretend that it will be a "show quality" restoration.  But I DO want it to be both functional AND respectable.

Another question for anyone...is there any way to test a Touch Control hydraulic unit that is not on a tractor.  I was given a spare unit when I bought the SA, and was told it HAD been working when a tractor was parted out, but I would like to test it.  Also, what would that be worth both functioning and not functioning.  Would it be worth overhauling?  

Since the future Bubba already had a broken engine, and thus I never saw it run, I am not sure what components are actually working, e.g. hydraulics, PTO, starter, governor, etc.  Should I put the good engine on him before I start to reassemble him, or assume it all does work, or assume nothing works?

How hard and how expensive is it to fix an engine with what I was told was a broken crankshaft?  Actually, the broken engine is not even the original, because the casting date is 1951, and the serial number is 1948, so neither engine is original.  That part doesn't really matter to me.

Sorry for the long rambling email.  I know some of the questions will just work themselves out and seem so obvious afterwards.  Some won't even matter.  I just wish I had some folks nearby who knew about them and could say "oh, yeah, that goes this way" or "it would be better if you did it that way"!  I am definitely looking forward to making more contacts.  Thanks all and goodnight!

Dale

PS John, sorry, but I am hoping you do NOT get a chance to use your snow blower this week in NC!!!








-----Original Message-----
From: john hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com>
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sat, Jan 22, 2011 11:20 pm
Subject: Re: [Farmall] shop time


When it comes to casting codes the resident experts are generally Jim Becker 
nd Al Jones.
If you don't have a parts book you can get to them online at Case-IH. Maybe 
hat can tell you of any problems you might encounter changing engines.  I 
an't ever recall swapping engines in anything other than a Cub. I know 
e've swapped out some flywheels and I'm thinking the last one of those was 
 bit different from the one we put back in, but it may have been out of a 
umber series.
Rule of thumb when we are ordering internal parts for one of those engines 
s to get the number of the piston and the number off an old bearing. I'm 
retty certain that if you ever go into the hydraulic reservoir you need to 
irst check the part number on it as well so you will getting parts for the 
ight one. Same rule for the carb as well, I'm thinking there are 5 
ifferent possibilities on that, some may be replacement carbs.
Check with Fitts in Cascade VA for a grill. Also call Greens salvage down 
ast (Freemont I think).
How perfect do you want the grill anyway? I spent a couple hours hammering 
ut one that was on a working tractor that had been rolled over and it came 
ut pretty good. Now if you are building a show machine, that's another 
tory!
John
----- Original Message ----- 
rom: "Dale" <flya737 at aol.com>
o: <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
ent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 9:37 PM
ubject: Re: [Farmall] shop time



 John, thought you might have a bit of a lull in your projects and wanted 
 to invite you (or anyone else!) to visit the Super A project I just 
 started here in Chapel Hill.  (At least I THINK you are in the area?)  It 
 is the '48 SA I just bought in Person Co. with the broken crankshaft.  I 
 also have a second '48 SA (with a working engine) that I had originally 
 planned to restore, but decided the Person Co one ("Bubba") was actually 
 in better shape.  I figured I will put the working engine on Bubba, and 
 part out the other.

 I was wondering if you, or anyone else, can confirm which engine I have? 
 It has no engine serial number, is currently on tractor S/N  250323, has a 
 block part number 354898R93 with a C123 also on the block, and I can't 
 read the casting date.

 Will there be any problem putting this engine on Bubba (Tractor S/N 
 258879, Eng S/N 317601, with the broken crank, and Eng block part 
 #354898R1 with a G)?

 I plan to dismantle as far as necessary, sandblast/strip parts, then 
 repair/replace and repaint everything.  I would LOVE to have your expert 
 advice, as my previous experience is limited to my recent restoration of 
 my '55 Cub, which I just finished in September '10, and really enjoyed.  I 
 am looking forward to learning a new tractor and meeting folks who know 
 more than I!

 I also plan on going down to the cub gathering in FL next month...anyone 
 else going?  It will be my first!  Hope to meet some good people and learn 
 some more.

 Dale Finch
 Chapel Hill, NC
 flya737 at aol.com

 PS Anyone have a grill in reasonably good condition that they will sell to 
 me CHEAP?!  Can't afford $500+!

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