[Farmall] shop time

[john hall]

You'll get a bunch of different opinions on the questions your are asking, 
that's for sure.

As for me, I'm not a fan of 12 volt conversions. And in the words of Forrest 
Gump, "That's all I have to say about that."

Fixing an engine with a broke crank is just a matter of a massive rebuild, 
except you need another crank. You'll have to pull the engine and completely 
disassemble it. There are no short-cuts here. All the machine work will be 
the same.

You might save money when rebuilding the head if one of the 2 you have only 
needs facing and the valves ground. If the valves, spring, and guides are 
shot, you are going to spend big money on the head. For a show tractor, I'd 
have the machine shop work with the best of what I had. If what you have 
won't get you by for your purposes, a decent shop will let you know. If you 
can't find one that is trustworthy in your area, let me know and I'll send 
you to one in Durham that you can trust.

 As for the hydraulics, call a salvage yard and ask what one is worth. I'm 
guessing $1-200. Sometimes these units get an internal crack in the casting 
and are junked, but not often. Completely rebuilding one is expensive. I 
think the 4 boots were right at $100 for the last set we bought--if yours 
are leather then they are the originals most likely, the replacements have 
been rubber for quite some time. Then there is the O-ring kit. I don't think 
the nylon vales or the springs are included in that--inquire at the parts 
counter. Hopefully your filter hasn't disintegrated--dented and wrinkled up 
is normal. The last one we opened up had to have a new filter, it was pretty 
expensive. Its a good chance both your units are fine. I wouldn't do much 
more than change the fluid and clean the filter and just give them a try. If 
you have fast-hitch, hook it up to something and give it a workout. If while 
idling the lift lets down and then jumps back up and keeps repeating this 
process, I think that is caused by broke springs and damaged nylon 
valves--I'd have to check with dad to be certain. At least with that repair 
you only have to remove the head off the system. Still a lot of work but a 
whole lot less in parts. If one of them is really oily on the side the 
rockshaft is on, might as well plan on a full rebuild or a messed up paint 
job!

John Hall

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dale" <flya737 at aol.com>
To: <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 12:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] shop time


>
> I have the parts, operators and service manuals for the SA, but will have 
> to dig deeper for the info on the C123 engine, if that is what I have. 
> We'll see.  Do you know if there are seperate ones for the C113 and 123 
> engines?
>
> As for the grill, I am fortunate that the shop I am working in is both a 
> mechanic shop and a body shop.  So in addition to having folks that might 
> be able to do some of this stuff, I am hoping to get better at doing it 
> myself.  I really would like to learn how to weld, for example.  I think 
> one of the two grills MIGHT be able to be pounded back into shape, but I 
> will need to clean it up to see how much past repair has been done, and 
> what can be done now.  In any event, it might be fun to visit a couple of 
> these salvage yards!
>
> Both the SA's were already converted to 12V.  One, the new Bubba, has an 
> ignition KEY installed with a solenoid (I assume) between it and the 
> starter, thus there is no starter rod with the rocker-type start button on 
> top of the starter.  The other SA has the normal pull-type start switch, 
> with the starter rod connected to the switch on top of the starter.  Do 
> you have an opinion for which is preferable.  Although I MIGHT want to 
> take the SA (and the Cub, Bertha) sometime to a cub/SA-fest I do not 
> pretend that it will be a "show quality" restoration.  But I DO want it to 
> be both functional AND respectable.
>
> Another question for anyone...is there any way to test a Touch Control 
> hydraulic unit that is not on a tractor.  I was given a spare unit when I 
> bought the SA, and was told it HAD been working when a tractor was parted 
> out, but I would like to test it.  Also, what would that be worth both 
> functioning and not functioning.  Would it be worth overhauling?
>
> Since the future Bubba already had a broken engine, and thus I never saw 
> it run, I am not sure what components are actually working, e.g. 
> hydraulics, PTO, starter, governor, etc.  Should I put the good engine on 
> him before I start to reassemble him, or assume it all does work, or 
> assume nothing works?
>
> How hard and how expensive is it to fix an engine with what I was told was 
> a broken crankshaft?  Actually, the broken engine is not even the 
> original, because the casting date is 1951, and the serial number is 1948, 
> so neither engine is original.  That part doesn't really matter to me.
>
> Sorry for the long rambling email.  I know some of the questions will just 
> work themselves out and seem so obvious afterwards.  Some won't even 
> matter.  I just wish I had some folks nearby who knew about them and could 
> say "oh, yeah, that goes this way" or "it would be better if you did it 
> that way"!  I am definitely looking forward to making more contacts. 
> Thanks all and goodnight!
>
> Dale
>
> PS John, sorry, but I am hoping you do NOT get a chance to use your snow 
> blower this week in NC!!!
>