[AT] Carb problems

[Doug Tallman]

Dick, Carb kits for a model 14 should be easy to find. You can test the 
needle valve for the float by blowing through the fuel inlet. If you 
turn the carb upside down, the needle should seal and you shouldn't be 
able to blow through it. gas dribble from these carbs is a common thing 
and usually not caused by the needle and seat. Up inside where the 
mixture screw goes there is a brass tube that is the jet for the mixture 
screw. You almost have to remove that tube to get the top off as it goes 
up into the air horn. A new tube and mixture screw is usually included 
in the carb kit. If you look on the tube a little up from the thread you 
will see a small chamfer. That taper has to seal up inside the carb 
where the tube goes through the float bowl. If that doesn't seal, you 
get the gas dribble out the choke end. Used carbs aren't hard to find 
either but most will need a good cleaning from sitting. Merry Christmas 
to all on the list!!!   Doug T





Dick Day wrote:
> First... MARRY CHRISTMAS!  May everyone on the list have a safe and Blessed 
> Christmas (hope I did not offend anyone :)  )
>
> Second...
>
> A while back, I posted a question about David Bradley tractors. Well, I 
> bought two, one is the very first model they sold through Sears, a 5751 and 
> the other is a 1955 Super 3.
>
> The Super 3 was re-powered with a Briggs Model 14, 5hp engine.
>
> This is the first time I have ever worked with lawn & garden-sized engines. 
> The carb on the Model 14 has some issues.  After checking fluid levels and 
> setting the carb adjustments per the manual, I opened the petcock on the 
> fuel tank and saw gas leaking big-time from the carb.
>
> I removed the carb and discovered:
>
> 1. The threads in the opening of the carb where the brass needle valve 
> screws in are stripped.  I could see this by the way the brass slotted head 
> was chewed up that someone forced the needle valve in there.  I managed to 
> get it out but can see that the threads are totally messed up.  This is not 
> the source of leaking gas but is a major problem
>
> 2. The float was not sticking and it does not have a hole in it and it was 
> adjusted properly and everything looks clean. I did notice that the brass 
> seat that the needle pin goes into was also chewed up.  There is some reason 
> the pin is not being fully inserted into the seat, which I believe is the 
> cause for the leaking gas.
>
> I am pretty sure the needle valve opening will need to be repaired, 
> something I am not equipped to do.
>
> Are there Briggs carb rebuild services out there or places that sell rebuilt 
> carbs?  I know I could buy a Northern Tools replacement engine for under 
> $200 but would rather get this old engine running.  Thoughts?
>
> Thanks! 
>
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