[Farmall] Farmall Cub Engine seal replacement

[WALTER AVERY]

not the same subject but,

has anyone replaced the 4 pos light switch (mine was rectangular
on the back side) with one with round back such as #593 from 
OEM?  i tried to wire it per their diagram but it doesnt seem
to be working correctly. with engine running and turning the lights on they flicker and the new amp gauge needle flickers on discharge. it does not flicker with engine off.  i will check wiring again.

48 cub with magneto

my next rebuild will be the generator with regulator replacement

thanks guys,
appreciate any guidance
Walter Avery

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----- Original Message -----
From: Darrell Ratliff <dbigdog at columbus.rr.com>
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 19:45:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Farmall Cub Engine seal replacement

It can be done without removing the manifold.  There is plenty of room.

From: WALTER AVERY 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 7:29 PM
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list 
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Farmall Cub Engine seal replacement

i'd like to ask someone, dont know who for this topic.

is it absolutely required to remove the intake/exhaust manifold
for access to valve adjustment on 48 farmall cub?

thanks, 
Walter
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----- Original Message -----
From: DBigdog <DBigdog at columbus.rr.com>
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 07:31:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Farmall Cub Engine seal replacement

Dale,
    When removing the front pulley the main thing is to make sure you do not 
apply pressure to the flanges of the pulley or they will break.  Use a 
bearing splitter behind the pulley so that you are pulling against the hub 
area of the pulley.  The pulley comes off hard but it will come if enough 
pressure is applied by the puller.  Some heat will help.
    On the rear retainer - there was a change along the way and the seals 
now available do not fit tightly into the retainer.  So I am sure you will 
find this to be the case with your old retainer.  One of the fellows on the 
farmallcub.com forum found a seal with the same I.D. but a larger O.D. and 
machined out the retainer for proper fit of the seal.  Others have used 
silicone adhesive to secure the seal or a combination of staking the 
retainer to create a tighter fit and then using an adhesive sealant to keep 
the seal in place.
    The seals in the steering gear should hold no surprises for you.  Of 
course, while you have it apart for the rear seal check the clutch and 
throwout bearing and consider replacing the pilot bushing in the rear of the 
crank.  If it is good, be sure to lube it before re-assembly.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Dale
To: farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 10:11 PM
Subject: [Farmall] Farmall Cub Engine seal replacement



I am about to replace the front and rear engine seals on my '55 Cub, since 
it is torn down already for repairs and fresh paint.  I just bought the 2 
seals plus the gasket for the rear.

1. Can anyone suggest how to remove the pulley without the "special tool" 
(aka HUGE pulley puller from the photos!) mentioned in the manual? Some 
clever trick up your sleeve?

2. I was warned by the parts store that if the rear seal goes in "nice and 
easy" it is time to replace the housing holding it (about $150).  Is this a 
common occurrence?

3. I am also replacing the old steering gear housing since the old one had 
frozen, cracked, and been repaired, but no longer would allow the front 
grill to be attached correctly from a poorly executed weld repair.  I will 
be replacing the seals here as well.

4. While I am doing this, is there anything I absolutely should do while it 
is torn down this far?

She ran just fine...just a few leaks here and there.

Dale Finch

PS this mostly started when I found a new deck for the old corroded one and 
found a friend with a shop who would let me work on it there!  What was I 
thinking??!!



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