[Farmall] Farmall Cub Engine seal replacement

[Jim Becker]

No but by the time you have them adjusted you may wish you had at least 
pulled the carburetor off.

Jim Becker jim.becker at verizon.net

-----Original Message----- 
From: WALTER AVERY
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 6:29 PM
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Farmall Cub Engine seal replacement

i'd like to ask someone, dont know who for this topic.

is it absolutely required to remove the intake/exhaust manifold
for access to valve adjustment on 48 farmall cub?

thanks,
Walter
.
----- Original Message -----
From: DBigdog <DBigdog at columbus.rr.com>
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 07:31:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Farmall Cub Engine seal replacement

Dale,
    When removing the front pulley the main thing is to make sure you do not
apply pressure to the flanges of the pulley or they will break.  Use a
bearing splitter behind the pulley so that you are pulling against the hub
area of the pulley.  The pulley comes off hard but it will come if enough
pressure is applied by the puller.  Some heat will help.
    On the rear retainer - there was a change along the way and the seals
now available do not fit tightly into the retainer.  So I am sure you will
find this to be the case with your old retainer.  One of the fellows on the
farmallcub.com forum found a seal with the same I.D. but a larger O.D. and
machined out the retainer for proper fit of the seal.  Others have used
silicone adhesive to secure the seal or a combination of staking the
retainer to create a tighter fit and then using an adhesive sealant to keep
the seal in place.
    The seals in the steering gear should hold no surprises for you.  Of
course, while you have it apart for the rear seal check the clutch and
throwout bearing and consider replacing the pilot bushing in the rear of the
crank.  If it is good, be sure to lube it before re-assembly.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Dale
To: farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 10:11 PM
Subject: [Farmall] Farmall Cub Engine seal replacement



I am about to replace the front and rear engine seals on my '55 Cub, since
it is torn down already for repairs and fresh paint.  I just bought the 2
seals plus the gasket for the rear.

1. Can anyone suggest how to remove the pulley without the "special tool"
(aka HUGE pulley puller from the photos!) mentioned in the manual? Some
clever trick up your sleeve?

2. I was warned by the parts store that if the rear seal goes in "nice and
easy" it is time to replace the housing holding it (about $150).  Is this a
common occurrence?

3. I am also replacing the old steering gear housing since the old one had
frozen, cracked, and been repaired, but no longer would allow the front
grill to be attached correctly from a poorly executed weld repair.  I will
be replacing the seals here as well.

4. While I am doing this, is there anything I absolutely should do while it
is torn down this far?

She ran just fine...just a few leaks here and there.

Dale Finch

PS this mostly started when I found a new deck for the old corroded one and
found a friend with a shop who would let me work on it there!  What was I
thinking??!!



=
_______________________________________________
Farmall mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall

_______________________________________________
Farmall mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall

_______________________________________________
Farmall mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall