[AT] Actual antique tractor vegetable discussion

[charlie hill]

Grant the only thing about your tractor use plan that would bother me is I'd 
hate to subject even the old tractors to inexperienced and non-caring 
"operators".   I realize you have to do it but it's got to hurt to hear the 
gears scrape.   As for the AC stuff, 170, 175 and 180 are basically D-17 and 
D-19 with different sheet metal.   The 160's are a slightly different animal 
because they did not us AC engines.
There are some quirks to running AC tractors.   A good operator wouldn't 
have a problem but some unskilled farm hand jumping off an I-H or Oliver 
onto an AC might find it a bit unfamiliar.  Mainly because of the Power 
Director (2 stage hand clutch).   In order to have live PTO on those AC 
tractors you have to use that hand clutch.   However,  I don't know that the 
IH or Oliver tractors of that era had live PTO either, did they?

I felt a stab when you mentioned the R4.  The one I told you about a couple 
of years back got cut up for scrap.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Grant Brians
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 8:26 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: [AT] Actual antique tractor vegetable discussion

     Here is my promised antique tractor post....
     First, I could not make it to Tulare's California Antique Farm
Equipment show over this past weekend due to overwhelming farming and family
commitments. But Richard Walker was kind enough to bid on and get me some
Caterpillar D8 parts. I "almost" also got a Cat R4 and various other items
that went over my limit without being there.... Once again thanks to Richard
for his assistance and a running commentary of the impromptu tractor pull of
a Best Steamer tractor and a Holt early, early tractor. WOW!!
     Second, as I have mentioned on the list before, we use both modern
(1980's-2008) tractors in my farming operation and also antiques (1930's to
1960's). My foremen and I have come to the conclusion that using the modern
diesel tractors for picking tractors in the manner that the employees use
them is an exercise in futility when trying to avoid inappropriate usage -
clutches being overused, alternators left on and running batteries down,
breaking plastic parts, not understanding modern controls properly. What we
have figured out works best is a good medium weight row crop tractor with a
three point hitch that is before the use of plastics in tractors, that does
not have too much power (between 35 and 65hp), travels at speeds from about
2.5mph to 10mph or so (not much higher) and also that has very simple
controls and sturdy transmission and shifters. I happen to be partial to
Oliver Row Crop tractors like the 77's, 770's, 1550, and 1650's because
nearly all of the models meet those parameters. I have also been thinking
that the late 60's to late 70's IH Farmall tractors might be a good choice
too because there are still a fair number of them around.
     So the reason I bring this to the list is that local to me there are
really not many tractors in this class that are available and that I have
experience with. The John Deeres of that era don't generally have a three
point until the new generation and cost more and are less likely to be for
sale. Allis Chalmers used to have a local dealership and there were lots of
160s and 180s sold, but I really have not played with them and the D-17s
have a great reputation, but I don't have personal experience and my
neighbor with one has had certain experiences that lead me to think it may
not be best for this specific use. Can you pass along advice or better yet
info about California tractors that might help me out? I WILL be acquiring
at least 2 harvest tractors this year.... Currently we use an Oliver 770, a
Farmall 100 (not sturdy or fast enough), a Ford 4610 (excellent tractor but
the shutoff sequence seems to disagree with my pickers...) and various
trucks. 4WD is not a help for this usage.
                 Grant Brians
                 Hollister,California farmer of Vegetables, Nuts and Fruit

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