[AT] Jim Dandy Question

Bob McNitt nysports at frontiernet.net
Fri Sep 17 08:15:12 PDT 2010


  Thanks, Larry. The higher price tells me that that model carb must be 
in higher demand. I'll pull the existing and see what I find in the 
float and value, I have a friend who's an antique vehicle nut and is 
pretty good at old carb work and repair. I'll let you know OT how I make 
out.
Bob

On 9/17/2010 10:41 AM, Larry Goss wrote:
> Yes.  That engine was a very popular one. It seems like everybody used it.  There are actually two versions of it used on the Jim Dandy's.  Some used battery ignition with points and condenser, others used a breakerless electronic ignition.  Both came with counterbalance gears inside.  New price for the carburetor is around $225.  I don't know that anyone has an explanation for why the price for that carburetor is higher than other models.  Tulsa Engine may still have the rebuild kit available, but don't be surprised if it gets backordered at any source and then never gets delivered.  Problems with the carburetor usually center around the float and float valve, or with the throttle shaft.  Last week, I had to cut a foam washer for the top end of that shaft out of Scotch-Brite so I could keep it from sucking wind.
>
> Larry
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob McNitt<nysports at frontiernet.net>
> Date: Friday, September 17, 2010 7:40
> Subject: Re: [AT] Jim Dandy Question
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>
>>    Larry - The Kohler in this one is the 14 hsp K321S one,
>> if that tells
>> you anything.
>> Bob
>>
>> On 9/16/2010 8:40 PM, Larry Goss wrote:
>>> Right.  The fact that you told us that it's a Jim Dandy
>> says a lot, Bob.  But there are at least five different
>> engines that it could have.  Three of those are K-series
>> Kohler's.  During major production times, each engine had
>> its own specs on the carburetor, but right before Kohler
>> announced they were making one last production run on the K-
>> series, they simplified the carburetor specs and reduced the
>> number of different ones.  Since the fundamental difference
>> was the diameter of the venturi, changing the carburetor specs
>> makes very little change in the operating characteristics. 
>> You need to keep that in mind as you go forward on this tractor,
>> because as parts become scarce, the OEM carburetor may not be
>> available.  Last week, the word I got from Kohler was that
>> neither the carburetor nor the rebuild kit for the engine I was
>> working on were available.  I put on a long face, and a
>> call was put in to the local warehouse.  It turned out that
>> they had an OEM carburetor in sto!
>>   ck, but had no rebuild kits -- take it or leave it. 
>> I took it!
>>> In the meantime, I boiled out two carburetors, combined them
>> into one usable one, and now have two carburetors to fit this
>> engine -- a used one, and a brand new one.
>>> Larry
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: Bob McNitt<nysports at frontiernet.net>
>>> Date: Thursday, September 16, 2010 18:07
>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Jim Dandy Question
>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group<at at lists.antique-
>> tractor.com>>
>>>>      Larry, from my somewhat limited experience
>> working on old
>>>> tractors
>>>> (and some newer ones too) filthy carbs and old gas probably
>>>> cause more
>>>> starting and run problems than almost anything else. I should've
>>>> paid
>>>> more attention to keep the carb (and fuel line, tank, etc.)
>>>> clean on
>>>> that Kohler. But since it's stored at my MIL's place and HAD
>>>> been
>>>> starting&   running OK the few times I run each year, I didn't.
>>>> When a
>>>> problem arises, the old 20-20 hindsight suddenly kicks in. I've
>>>> also
>>>> noticed that usually the newer the tractor, the cheaper the
>>>> components,
>>>> and that includes the engines, etc.
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>> On 9/16/2010 5:03 PM, Larry Goss wrote:
>>>>> BTW, Someone on this thread mentioned they were working with a
>>>> Command engine -- 18 or 20 horse.  Be aware that the
>>>> carburetor on that engine has a tendency to gum up, refuses to
>>>> idle, finally gets to the point it will not run, etc.  It's
>>>> all caused by a kind of algae growth in the anti-Dieseling valve
>>>> on the carburetor.  The valve is held to the outside of the
>>>> carburetor with a couple of Phillips head screws.
>>>> Carefully take it off, clean the gum out of the plastic parts,
>>>> and it will run like new again.  The growth is time
>>>> dependent.  It appears to only be a problem in Command
>>>> engines that set for long periods.
>>>>> Larry
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