[AT] OT--truck wheel torque

[john hall]

Don't know what you call them Charlie, for what it's worth it's a '74 Ford 
F-600. The nuts are tapered as well as the stud for the inside dual. All I 
know is that I put 8ft of pipe on one nut and it still wouldn't break loose. 
I suspect the last guy didn't center them up well and just went to 
tightening the heck out of things. Oddly enough there is no hub that 
accurately centers the rim. Kind of aggirvating to get them on. The only 
thing I've ever seen worse are the chrome rims on my Mustang, they use a 
shouldered nut.

John Hall

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "charlie hill" <charliehill at embarqmail.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2010 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] OT--truck wheel torque


> John does it have Dayton type or Budd type wheels (wedges and studs vs 
> just
> a regular looking rim with bolts in it)
>
> Charlie
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "john hall" <jtchall at nc.rr.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 9:52 PM
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: [AT] OT--truck wheel torque
>
>> What's your rule of thumb for how tight lug nuts on a 2-ton truck should
>> be? I put on a couple new tires and rotated some others. I tightned them
>> with a 4 foot pipe on the wrench. Sometimes you could hear them "pop". 
>> One
>> wheel was so tight it took a 6 foot pipe to break the nuts loose, one nut
>> had to be heated..
>>
>> John Hall
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