[Farmall] Moving Rear Wheels on "H"

[Al Jones]

Wet down the axle with your favorite penetrating/lubricating oil.  Used 
motor oil works good.  Get the four bolts good and loose so you can really 
rock the wheel.  Also, it seems to me on the Farmall 230 that it moves a 
little easier if the axle keyways are at the 9:00 and 3:00 position to take 
some of the weight of the wheel off the clamps.

Once you move them and re-tighten everything, don't forget to double-check 
the bolts after you have used the tractor a while to make sure they are 
still tight.

Al

--------------------------------------------------
From: <ebony51 at frontiernet.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 9:15 PM
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Moving Rear Wheels on "H"

> Tim,  That should do it.  Make sure the side of the tractor is blocked up 
> well enough so it does not fall.  Also, a good long frost bar or some 
> lever to move the tire will help.  I have never found a real easy way. 
> Sometimes it goes quickly and sometimes slowly.
>
> Larry Hardesty
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Savelle" <tim.savelle at gmail.com>
> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 7:07:53 PM
> Subject: [Farmall] Moving Rear Wheels on "H"
>
> I bought a used 16' low boy trailer to haul my '49 H on.  Now I've got to
> move the rear wheels inward some so it will fit between the trailer's
> fenders.  The tractor has new rubber on it, so I'm thinking the wheels 
> have
> probably been off within the last couple of years.  Everything's painted 
> on
> the rear axles and rims, and I don't see anything that would lead me to
> believe the wheels are rusted to the axles .  Looks to me like moving the
> wheels is pretty straight-forward:  loosen the 4 big bolts and work the
> wheels inward.  Any particular quirks in moving the wheels that anyone 
> knows
> about, or anything I should know before I start?
>
> Thanks,
> Tim
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