[AJD] Introduction - and a question

(The original) Mike Scholl buck69_hunter at hotmail.com
Fri Jun 4 08:41:56 PDT 2010


Mark,

I certainly am not an expert, but know of several.  That being the case, I
won't make any potentially harmful suggestions.  My best recommendation for
you is for you to contact Gene Tencza at http://www.retiredtractors.com.
Additionally, I would recommend owning the "How to Restore..." book by
Therran Gaines, his books are loaded with useful and interesting
information.

Good luck and welcome,
Mike Scholl (1935 JD-B SN 5201)  
Isanti, MN

-----Original Message-----
From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
Mark Johnson
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 7:49 AM
To: antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: [AJD] Introduction - and a question

Greetings all!

Since things are quiet and I'm new to the list, please allow me to introduce
myself.

My name is Mark Johnson, and I live near Wichita, Kansas, although I grew up
in 
a 'green' family in southern Indiana - at various times we had two 730s, a
620, two
different A's (both styled, although I only worked with the later one) and
an H. 
[I won't talk about the IH and the three different ACs; that's for another
list :-)]

The H is a narrow-front-end model (two wheel, not an HNH) and has been in
the
family since my grandfather purchased it in 1941; it now sits in my shed,
patiently
waiting for me to get to work on it - the serial number is 17616, which
places it in 
the 1940 production year. It is basically all-original, except that the
fenders are 
long gone, having rusted away in less than two years, according to my dad - 
and the original magneto was replaced with a Wico X, probably in the middle
to late 1940s - my grandfather didn't run distillate very much, and not at
all 
after the war ended. The X magneto is a gasoline-only magneto with 18 degree
max spark advance. Sheet metal is good with only surface rust, no
perforation,
and it was repainted and re-decaled in about 1980 or so. The block has not
been
bored, and I don't intend on doing so unless I have to (see next paragraph).

Little Johnny was running when I had him trucked out to Kansas six years
ago,
but has since become stuck while sitting waiting for me to get cracking on a

decent restoration. That brings me to my question: I need suggestions for a
good
treatment/regimen to get things unstuck. I am strongly tempted to do it by
brute
force, but I don't think that's necessarily a good idea. I do have a Ford 9N
that is
my mowing tractor (5 acre lot!) if it comes to that.

Also...it still has the last antifreeze and oil in it, been in there since I
moved it -
I *know* that draining the coolant is a good idea, but I am not so sure
about 
letting it sit with the crankcase dry if I get distracted from the project -
opinions
would be welcomed!

Many thanks for any help! 

Mark Johnson
Wichita, KS
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