[AJD] Introduction - and a question

[Paul Waugh]

One trick I have not had to use but sounds like it would do well.   Put the 
bolts in the flywheel.  Place a pry bar in between the bolts.  Now, either 
jack up the pry bar to raise the frontend 4-5 inches off the ground. Or 
raise the front off the ground 4-5 inches and secure the pry bar holding the 
front up.  Of course sparkplugs are out, and now you can put diesel, ATF or 
what ever you like.  Let it sit, check and add your 'solution' every few 
days. One day you will go to the shop and the front wheels will be on the 
ground :)), and engine free.
Paul-46555
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Johnson" <mark.s.johnson at pixius.net>
To: <antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 8:48 AM
Subject: [AJD] Introduction - and a question


> Greetings all!
>
> Since things are quiet and I'm new to the list, please allow me to 
> introduce myself.
>
> My name is Mark Johnson, and I live near Wichita, Kansas, although I grew 
> up in
> a 'green' family in southern Indiana - at various times we had two 730s, a 
> 620, two
> different A's (both styled, although I only worked with the later one) and 
> an H.
> [I won't talk about the IH and the three different ACs; that's for another 
> list :-)]
>
> The H is a narrow-front-end model (two wheel, not an HNH) and has been in 
> the
> family since my grandfather purchased it in 1941; it now sits in my shed, 
> patiently
> waiting for me to get to work on it - the serial number is 17616, which 
> places it in
> the 1940 production year. It is basically all-original, except that the 
> fenders are
> long gone, having rusted away in less than two years, according to my 
> dad -
> and the original magneto was replaced with a Wico X, probably in the 
> middle
> to late 1940s - my grandfather didn't run distillate very much, and not at 
> all
> after the war ended. The X magneto is a gasoline-only magneto with 18 
> degree
> max spark advance. Sheet metal is good with only surface rust, no 
> perforation,
> and it was repainted and re-decaled in about 1980 or so. The block has not 
> been
> bored, and I don't intend on doing so unless I have to (see next 
> paragraph).
>
> Little Johnny was running when I had him trucked out to Kansas six years 
> ago,
> but has since become stuck while sitting waiting for me to get cracking on 
> a
> decent restoration. That brings me to my question: I need suggestions for 
> a good
> treatment/regimen to get things unstuck. I am strongly tempted to do it by 
> brute
> force, but I don't think that's necessarily a good idea. I do have a Ford 
> 9N that is
> my mowing tractor (5 acre lot!) if it comes to that.
>
> Also...it still has the last antifreeze and oil in it, been in there since 
> I moved it -
> I *know* that draining the coolant is a good idea, but I am not so sure 
> about
> letting it sit with the crankcase dry if I get distracted from the 
> project - opinions
> would be welcomed!
>
> Many thanks for any help!
>
> Mark Johnson
> Wichita, KS
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