[Farmall] International A shifting lever problems

[ebony51 at frontiernet.net]

JIm,  Thanks.  Ummm...It does get more complicated then.  I will do some more checking.  I thought the rails were pretty tight.  

Larry 
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Becker" <jim.becker at verizon.net>
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, July 9, 2010 11:26:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] International A shifting lever problems

Larry,
The springs and balls John spoke of are the poppets that keep the forks in 
the intended position.  The springs are inserted in holes on the bottom side 
of the cover and the balls rest in notches on the top of the rails of each 
shifter fork.  The reverse fork has 2 notches and the other 2 have 3 each. 
A broken or gummed up spring will not hold the fork in place firmly.  You 
should also check the fit of the rails in the rail guides.  Excessive side 
slop of the rails can contribute to the problem.  You  can build up the ball 
end of the lever as long as it still can move freely across the slots in the 
forks and both directions in the rear rail guide.
Jim Becker

--------------------------------------------------
From: <ebony51 at frontiernet.net>
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 9:47 PM
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [Farmall] International A shifting lever problems

> John, I think this one is a bit different than what you describe.  There 
> is a spring on the the shifting lever, but mainly it functions to hold the 
> gear shift swivel shield down.
>
> There is a pin or shaft that goes through the gear shift swivel shaft (and 
> short of a ball there) that holds the gear shift lever into the 
> transmission. I am assuming the transmission end of the shift level needs 
> built up a bit.
>
> I looked at "Yesterdays Tractors" on someone said 1/4 inch.  Someone else 
> said weld as needed.  So, I suppose built it up 3/8, try and see how it 
> works, and grind it down if needs less.  Wished I had a TIG welder.  I 
> just have an old Forney stick welder that is on the fritz right now.  I 
> assume it is not too complicated to weld it up a bit...not sure what rod 
> to use though.
>
> Thanks
>
> Larry Hardesty
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "john hall" <jtchall at nc.rr.com>
> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 9, 2010 9:24:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] International A shifting lever problems
>
> I've worked on a couple that had to have the ball end welded up and ground
> back down. Tig welder works the best if you acess to one. I don't remember
> welding them up to a specific size--just got them spherical again. Also
> there are some springs and balls that keep everything in/out of gear. I
> think those springs break sometimes. Helped dad fix one a couple years ago
> but can't remember exactly what we had to do. I want to say you slide the
> track far enough back and expose the hole in the casting that you load the
> ball and spring into. Once the broken pieces are changed you have to hold
> them down with a punch until you slide the track back over top of it to 
> keep
> them from flying across the shop. You may want to take at look at the 
> parts
> book first--go to CaseIH website and pull up the parts book.
>
> John
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <ebony51 at frontiernet.net>
> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 9:50 PM
> Subject: [Farmall] International A shifting lever problems
>
>
>>I am getting all too good at taking the transmission cover off on my 1946
>>International A and unjamming the gears.  I assume the shifting lever is
>>worn, making it easy to jam the gears.  Anybody know the dimensions is
>>should be before I weld it up to a larger size?  Or is there a reason to
>>think my problem is something else.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Larry Hardesty
>> _______________________________________________
>
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