[AT] Update on '40 (39) Farmall A

charliehill charliehill at embarqmail.com
Tue Jan 26 05:33:21 PST 2010


Al, take a cardboard box similar in shape to a shoe box and cut slits to 
slide the push rods through to keep them in order.  Mark the box with an 
arrow toward the front of the engine.  You could probably arange the bolts 
in the same box with a few more holes.

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pga2 at BasicISP.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 7:50 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] Update on '40 (39) Farmall A


> Al,
> Your students should be able to unbolt the rocker arm shaft assembly and 
> remove it,
> then pull the pushrods out. It would be a really good idea to keep the 
> pushrods in
> order so they can go back in the same holes they came out of. Also, keep 
> the rocker
> assy. bolts in the same holes. I can't remember for sure, but one of them 
> may be a
> special bolt that allows oil to be fed up to the shaft. I can't remember 
> for sure,
> but your manual will be able to tell you. Same thing for the head bolts. 
> Put them
> back in the same spots they came from. They also need to be cleaned and 
> run a die
> over the threads to clean those up too. Same thing for the head bolt holes 
> in the
> block, tap them to clean out any gunk, especially if the block gets "hot 
> tanked".
> I redid the head on a C several years ago and had a problem with the head 
> gasket.
> The gasket I used came from an auto parts store. It didn't last. I swapped 
> the C
> off for a B and the man I swapped with replaced the head gasket with one 
> from I-H.
> That solved the gasket problem. One more thing, check the pushrods for 
> bends. It's
> a simple thing, but can cause lots of wierd problems if one or more are 
> bent.
>
> Phil
>
> --- farmallsupera at earthlink.net wrote:
>
> From: Al Jones <farmallsupera at earthlink.net>
> To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Cc: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: [AT] Update on '40 (39) Farmall A
> Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 22:26:10 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
>
> Last week I took the A to the MF dealer in town and got them to steam 
> clean it for me. It wasn't too bad to start with but every little bit 
> helps. I got it rolled into the shop at school, ready for my class to get 
> started on it.
>
> I did some research at the IH archives website, and according to the 
> production records they have online, it was actually built in December of 
> '39.  So, I'm calling it a '39 :)
>
> Anyhow, the first day of the semester was today.  I took the class into 
> the shop the last 30 min. of class and introduced it to them and told them 
> the goal was to drive it out of the shop under its own power.  Then under 
> my supervision a couple students took the valve cover off. All valves are 
> loose.  Tomorrow if they finish in time we are going to start preparing to 
> pull the head off.  The crew seems pretty enthusiastic about it and were 
> amused at the thought of an actual hand crank engine.
>
> I wanted to study up tonight but I left my service manual at school.  Can 
> we just unbolt the rocker arm assembly and pull the pushrods out of the 
> block?
>
> Thanks,
> Al
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: John Hall <jthall at worldnet.att.net>
>>Sent: Jan 19, 2010 9:53 PM
>>To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>Subject: Re: [Farmall] Setback on '40 Farmall A
>>
>> Al, don't get too excited just yet about having a cracked block . Usually 
>> a
>>wet sleeve engine will just bust the sleeve. Dry sleeve engines are the 
>>ones
>>more likely to bust the block, that's what happened to the ID-9 that I 
>>sold
>>to Travis 10+ years ago.
>>
>>John Hall
>>
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>>Farmall mailing list
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>
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