[AT] [SEL] Guess what is showing up at Portland...

[David Rotigel]

Your advice is sage Rob, except that showing Spencer's Ball on the  
trailer will make it look even BIGGER! Additionally, you could cure  
the problem of not being at Portland easily! If YOU are too busy to  
attend Portland why not just buy Kelley a plane ticket to Baraboo and  
Arnie and I will do the rest!
	Dave
PS, We will send Kelley back to KA right after the Portland show!

On Aug 14, 2010, at 12:26 PM, Rob Skinner wrote:

>
> On Aug 13, 2010, at 4:21 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>> But the 25 HP Ball oilfield engine will finally be at Portland this
>> year.
>
> Wow, Spencer.  That's exciting.  I wish Kelley and I were going to be
> there to see her debut.
>
>
>> Check out the pictures of the trailer and skids here:
>> http://www.atis.net/forums/album.php?albumid=29
>
> Nice!
>
>
>> The engine is not running and this year I am planning on spending the
>> week at Portland getting it in running condition
>
> Fun idea.
>
>
>> Any thoughts and comments on the trailer loading and mounting would  
>> be
>> much appreciated!
>
> The feng shui is maximized when the engine is on the ground.
>
> Getting the engine on the ground is serious business that is best
> considered before you begin.  I would use 2" pipes for rollers, and
> plenty of 'em.  Trailer ramps must be stout.
>
> If you can unload onto asphalt, you're golden.  If you're going to set
> up on dirt, especially in the Portland Mud Bog, bring 2x10s onto which
> you can roll the engine.  Pipes generally don't roll well over dry  
> dirt.
>
> In and out is controlled with a winch mounted at the front of your
> trailer.  You can use a come-a-long, but that gets old.  Use a GOOD
> come-a-long.  Two can be nice to have.
>
> Up and down is controlled with a mechanical toe jack.  Two can be nice
> to have.  I build skids with the toe jack in mind.  I've seen original
> skids such as yours that have a cross member near each end, off the
> ground a ways.  Those are nice places to lift from.
>
> A 5' or 6' pry bar is also handy.  An assortment of short blocks is
> also handy.
>
> It would be nice to have someone experienced in moving heavy stuff
> show you their method for your first time.  Whatever you do, use only
> one or two trustworthy helpers-NO MORE.  You don't need a bunch of
> "experts" buzzing around and turning a serious project into a
> dangerous project.
>
> Hints:
>
> There will be two points that might come as a surprise.
>
> One, is when the center of gravity rolls over the apex of the trailer/
> ramps.  The engine will begin to tip from level to a nose-down
> attitude.  At this point, you'll want one roller near the apex, and
> the engine can pivot on that roller.  That's why you need a straight
> pull on your winch, to keep it from turning all cattywampus.  Go slow,
> keep it under control.
>
> The second surprise is when the engine reaches the bottom of the ramps
> and digs right into the ground.  If you've placed your rollers
> properly, you might avoid this.  Otherwise, just jack it up a little
> and stick another roller under there.  Be careful, as you're now
> beneath the load.  Go slow, keep it under control.
>
> Principles:
>
> With 2" pipes, you're never more than 2.5" off the ground.  The higher
> off the ground you are, the more precarious you become.  Keep it low.
>
> For your first time, keep four pipes under the engine.  It adds
> stability.
>
> Prime directive:
>
> Captain Kirk had a Prime Directive.  You have two:
>
> 1.  Don't hurt anyone.
> 2.  Don't hurt your engine.
>
> Have fun with your new toy.  I'm looking forward to the pictures and
> the video of her running.
>
> Rob
>
>
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