[Farmall] water temperature in 48 super a

Fri Aug 13 18:44:15 PDT 2010

Agreed Al,

I did the same thing with an AV, the only exception was that I soaked it
good with penetrating oil, it almost came out without collapsing

Bobby Guilbeau

-----Original Message-----
From: farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Al Jones
Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 8:23 PM
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
Subject: Re: [Farmall] water temperature in 48 super a

Last one I did, I put a pipe wrench on it, right above the manifold.  Then I

got a cheater bar and began applying pressure gently, but steadily 
increasing.  Pipe began to collapse at the manifold, gave up, and came out. 
The one I did was pretty thin.  THe threads are regular pipe threads.

Al

--------------------------------------------------
From: "WALTER AVERY" <waltavery at embarqmail.com>
Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 2:56 PM
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [Farmall] water temperature in 48 super a

> the top end of the exhaust pipe is bent in and could be part or all of the

> problem. what is the best way to remove the pipe from the manifold. im 
> sure its rusted together. dont want to work on it while its on the tractor

> for fear of dropping something down the pipe.
> any ideas? thanks, Walt
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Becker <jim.becker at verizon.net>
> To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 17:22:16 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] water temperature in 48 super a
>
> I don't think I have ever seen one hot enough to scorch a decal on the 
> side
> of the hood.  I imagine there is an exhaust leak somewhere that you 
> haven't
> found.  I have seen the effects of heat on the hood near the exhaust pipe.
> Usually (maybe always) it has been because of a poor fitting or badly
> installed muffler that was pushing exhaust out the joint and directly onto
> the hood.  Maybe you could start with a cold engine and soak the exhaust
> system down with very soapy water.  Then start it up and look for bubbles.
> You will have to look it over pretty quickly.  As soon as it is warm 
> enough
> to start boiling the water off, you will be done.
> Jim Becker
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "WALTER AVERY" <waltavery at embarqmail.com>
> Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 2:41 PM
> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] water temperature in 48 super a
>
>> even with the enlarged hole in the hood, it is burning paint and the 
>> decal
>> on the side.
>> i cant feel any air leaks at manifold/pipe. is there a better way to 
>> check
>> for exhaust
>> leaks? i cant put a paint job on that hot thing.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Al Jones <farmallsupera at earthlink.net>
>> To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Sent: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 22:19:16 -0400 (EDT)
>> Subject: Re: [Farmall] water temperature in 48 super a
>>
>> The system will "find" the correct coolant level.  If you top it off 
>> every
>> time you run the tractor it will lose coolant through the overflow due to
>> expansion from heating.  Old time mechanic told me that as long as the
>> flues
>> in the radiator are filled to the top with coolant, it'll be fine.
>>
>> Al
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Barney Van De Weert" <bbvande at yahoo.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 8:47 PM
>> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Farmall] water temperature in 48 super a
>>
>>> The sensor for the temp gage is in the return from the radiator to the
>>> engine,
>>> so it is sensing after being cooled. Most engines the temp sensing is in
>>> the
>>> head. Like Al says you have to get it pretty hot for the gage to move. 
>>> If
>>> I get
>>> mine pretty hot I can hear the coolant bubbling in the engine when I 
>>> shut
>>> it
>>> off, gage is still in cold area. The most important thing is to make 
>>> sure
>>> that
>>> you have the cooling system full at all times to avoid over heating, so
>>> if
>>> you
>>> use it often keep an eye on it, it will "use" coolant. This system
>>> depends
>>> on
>>> natural convection to make it work, when the water is cooled in the rad
>>> it
>>> flows
>>> down, when the engine heats it up it rises, thus thermo-siphon term.
>>>
>>> The enlarged hole sounds like a broken exhaust pipe at one time or
>>> another,
>>> pretty common.
>>>  Barney Van De Weert
>>> 3828 Heartwood St
>>> Uniontown OH 44685
>>>
>>>
>>> bbvande at yahoo.com
>>> Cell# 330-760-5988
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Al Jones <farmallsupera at earthlink.net>
>>> To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>> Sent: Wed, August 11, 2010 5:16:55 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [Farmall] water temperature in 48 super a
>>>
>>> In my experience you got to really get it hot to see much of a change in
>>> the
>>> gauge.  Your gauge's behavior sounds normal.
>>>
>>> Al
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "WALTER AVERY" <waltavery at embarqmail.com>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 5:07 PM
>>> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>> Subject: [Farmall] water temperature in 48 super a
>>>
>>>> i got a temp guage and lower water neck but it shows no temp rise.
>>>> when i got the tractor i noticed the decal simmering on the side of
>>>> the hood near the exhaust. i noticed someone enlarged the hole also
>>>> for more sheetmetal clearance. i didnt find a leak in manifold or pipe.
>>>> i
>>>> bought the guage to find if it was running hot. the needle never moves
>>>> off
>>>> the bottom. i checked guage in pot of water and it seems ok. what do 
>>>> you
>>>> think the temp of the water in lower neck be when the motor has been
>>>> running for at least 15 minutes?
>>>> 48 super a w/o water pump.
>>>> thanks for your help in advance, Walt
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: john hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com>
>>>> To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>>> Sent: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 22:45:33 -0400 (EDT)
>>>> Subject: Re: [Farmall] dirt in hydraulic unit
>>>>
>>>> If you don't want to tear into it, drain the system, pull the filter 
>>>> and
>>>> wash it and see if you can flush out any sludge with the filter out.
>>>> Careful
>>>> using solvents as they may attack the O-rings. To completely drain the
>>>> system you'll need to pull the line off. Just how much sludge are you
>>>> seeing
>>>> in there? If it is a lot you may need to just rebuild the whole unit so
>>>> you
>>>> can get it clean. If one of the hydraulics is letting down while 
>>>> running
>>>> and
>>>> then jumps back up, thats probably a broken spring. You have to remove
>>>> the
>>>> "head" (the end next to the battery box). You'll proably want to change
>>>> the
>>>> little nylon valve while you are in there. Those hydraulics run trouble
>>>> free
>>>> for years but when they start acting up, they can be a real pain and 
>>>> get
>>>> quite expensive depending on what you have to have. The last one we
>>>> opened
>>>> up had to have the filter.
>>>>
>>>> John Hall
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>>>> From: "WALTER AVERY" <waltavery at embarqmail.com>
>>>> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>>> Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 8:18 PM
>>>> Subject: Re: [Farmall] dirt in hydraulic unit
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>i wonder if it is possible to flush out with solvent
>>>>> not by using the hydraulics, just in the top and out
>>>>> the drain. the dirt is laying in the bottom as viewed
>>>>> through the drain and is at least 1/8" deep.
>>>>> everything works, both sides, one side will creep down
>>>>> and come back up to original position. i dont want to
>>>>> dive into this in a major way at this point.
>>>>>
>>>>> what do you think? thanks, Walt
>>>>
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