[Farmall] gasket question

Tue Aug 3 06:43:04 PDT 2010

I found great success with 2 products.  For mating pressed metal to milled 
cast (ie. rear axel housing covers, oil pans, and even radiator cores)I will 
use Permatex the Right Stuff 1 minute gasket 
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_1_Minute_Gasket.htm

For mating milled cast surfaces (ie. axel housing-trans housing, bull gear 
covers, front timing cover, fly wheel housing) I like Permatex Aviation Form 
A Gasket No 3 
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_Aviation_Form-A-Gasket_No_3_Sealant_a.htm

Chris Allen
Curtice, OH
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Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 12:00 PM
Subject: Farmall Digest, Vol 76, Issue 2

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> Today's Topics:
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>   1. Re: gasket question (John Gustafson)
>   2. Re: stuck engine (Bob Currie)
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> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 16:35:02 -0400
> From: John Gustafson <gustafsonjohnc at wildblue.net>
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] gasket question
> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Message-ID: <E0B8920430CF45619822A61668D5A575 at LOUISABLPC>
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> Todd;
> 36" wide ought to be enough if it's in a roll, at least that long. In my
> initial searching I had found only cut sheets on the reatail market. I kew
> roll stock had to be available but hadn't considered NAPA.  I'll have to
> check on that down here. I did find fiber gasket maetial finally at Mc
> Master Carr in 36" width and 10 foot rolls which should be enough to allow
> for a couple of mistakes.
>
> One thing I did find plowing through this transmission is that the cases 
> are
> different between the Regular and F-20 in the area of the pto shifter 
> shaft.
> I knew the ratios were a bit different but both teardown manuals I had 
> said
> "drive the shifter shaft out to the rear from the front". Not on the three
> regulars we have.  One of them a .late 31. The F-20  (38) on the other 
> hand
> has the welch plug in the front to allow you to drive the shaft through.
> About a half hour or so of headscratching to figure it out.
>
> John Gustafson
> Gloucester, VA
>
>
> From: <farmallgray at aol.com>
> To: <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 9:37 AM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] gasket question
>
>
>> John,
>> I don't know the exact size of the final drives offhand and I'm not near
>> any of my tractors to measure.
>> Fel-Pro (available from NAPA and other stores) makes 18"X36" sheets and
>> also 36" wide rolls that are 15-50 yards long.
>> I would think that should be big enough.
>>
>>
>> On the gasket where the trans bolts to the diff housing RTV should work
>> fine since it is cast iron to cast iron. Where I have had trouble
>> is where a tin cover mates to a casting (like the diff cover). In these
>> cases I usually use a gasket AND RTV.
>>
>>
>> Permatex makes a product called "the right stuff"
>>
>>
>> http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm
>>
>>
>> It is made to work in place of cut gaskets. I have not tried it yet
>> myself, but I have seen some demonstrations of it, and from them I think
>> it
>> should work good for what you are doing. It isn't cheap though.
>>
>>
>> Todd Markle
>>
>> Spring Mills, Pa.
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: John G <gustafsonjohnc at wildblue.net>
>> To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Sent: Fri, Jul 30, 2010 2:21 pm
>> Subject: [Farmall] gasket question
>>
>>
>> Son and I finally got back on the Regular after a 4 or 5 month hiatus. We
>> had decided to tear down the transmission and get it tanked, along with
>> the
>> differential housing and the bull gear housings. That 80 year old tar was
>> just too much. Then the castings to the blast yard and a coat of primer.
>>
>> I had pretty much decided a while back that I was going to have to make a
>> new set of gaskets for everything. The bull gear and differential cover
>> have
>> me a bit concerned because of the size. Have not found sheets of 
>> vellumoid
>> that large yet. Son and I got into a discussion about using Blue RTV. My
>> personal experience has been mixed with it but there are those who swear
>> its
>> the best thing since sliced bread. By the same token there were very few
>> leaks on the fittings as we took them apart and the case was pretty full
>> initially. Worst leak was the front of the pto shaft cover.
>>
>> I've measured the thickness  of the old gaskets and I get about 1/32 for
>> almost everything and the old vegetable based material is readily
>> available
>> for the smaller gaskets in that thickness. I'm actually thinking of using
>> 3/64 to allow for long term set on the original gaskets.
>>
>> Anyone out there have any guidance on sources or how to proceed with 
>> this?
>>
>> John Gustafson
>>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 21:40:18 -0700
> From: "Bob Currie" <tracturs at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] stuck engine
> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Message-ID: <1790F78D0C304632965E4ADC32236743 at pcsvalsys>
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> reply-type=original
>
> Kevin, there are many different solutions you can try. I don't recommend 
> any
> particular one, but I did read a study done at a big university that 
> tested
> five or six of the top brands, and then tried some "home brews". The test
> results using torque lbs to loosen the rusted parts showed that a 50/50 
> mix
> of ATF was the most effective. But it's worth considering that it could be
> something other that the common stuck piston in a cylinder. So, do as Mike
> suggests with jacking up one rear wheel, transmission in gear, and then 
> try
> to isolate the stuck place. You didn't say how long it has been soaking. 
> If
> the gently rocking of the rear wheel, soaking for weeks, and tap, tap, tap
> doesn't work, I'd recommend pulling the rocker arm assembly and head from
> the motor to have a look.
>
> bobcurrie
> Greenwood, CA
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Kevin Bish" <krsky at windstream.net>
> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 4:06 AM
> Subject: [Farmall] stuck engine
>
>
>> Hi to all on the list.
>> I am buying a F12 Farmall. The engine is stuck, and has been soaking. The
>> guy I am buying it from has tried to free the engine, but has had no 
>> luck.
>> Anyone have some ideas about what to use? This question has probably been
>> on
>> here before, but I just wondered if maybe someone has tried somthing new,
>> that loosens things up better than some of the oils suggested before?
>> Thanks, Kevin.
>>
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> End of Farmall Digest, Vol 76, Issue 2
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