[Farmall] stuck engine

edgreany-home at yahoo.com edgreany-home at yahoo.com
Mon Aug 2 20:10:12 PDT 2010


It might be obvious but did you pull all the plugs and see if it will turn over?
That will eliminate water-filled cylinders.
 
Ed

--- On Mon, 8/2/10, Kevin Bish <krsky at windstream.net> wrote:


From: Kevin Bish <krsky at windstream.net>
Subject: Re: [Farmall] stuck engine
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Date: Monday, August 2, 2010, 3:19 PM


Thanks to all for the suggestions about a stuck engine. I knew I would get 
some very good advice from my fellow tractor mechanics. I got some of the 
Kroil spary today to try. I haven't brought the tractor home yet to work on 
it. I guess the tractor did run fine, and the owner passed away. My neighbor 
bought the tractor, and has been trying to free up whatever is stuck in the 
engine, with no luck. The tractor has always been covered up well with 
tarps, so I am hoping it isn't stuck to bad. I will try a mix of everyone's 
suggestions to see what happens when I work on the tractor. Thanks again to 
everyone for the advice. Kevin.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <szabelsk at gdls.com>
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] stuck engine


> Not all the pistons may be stuck. If the tractor was outside and rain got
> into the engine through the exhaust pipe, only one or two cylinders may be
> rusted, depending on things like how level the engine was when parked,
> which valves were open, how much water got into the cylinders, etc. It
> pays to pull the head and take a look at the internals. Why spend time
> trying to free all the cylinders when you only need to work on one or two?
>
> If there is still water in the cylinder, any oil/penetrate will have a
> tendency to float on it and not get down to the rusty stuff. Remove the
> water and then apply the penetrate.
>
> Also drop the oil pan, loosen all the bearings and see which pistons can
> be moved my pushing/pulling on them (or even rotating them in the
> cylinder) by hand. If the bearings were spun and have essentially welded
> the connecting rod(s) to the crank, no amount of cylinder soaking is going
> to get the pistons to move. You're going to have to do this anyway once
> you get the pistons free. You probably have water in the pan anyway.
>
> This would also be a good time to apply a little persuasion with a piece
> of wood on the cylinder head and a rubber mallet. Cut the wood so that
> it's just slightly smaller then the diameter as the cylinder to equally
> distribute the hits across the entire piston head. Don't beat on them all
> day long or with a sledgehammer. Just give them a couple of decent hits
> every now and then.
>
> I spun a bearing once and put a good twist in the crank handle trying to
> turn the engine by hand.
>
> Carl Szabelski
>
>
>
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