[Farmall] Farmall Cub Engine seal replacement

[Jim Becker]

IH did change the retainer for the slightly smaller seals.  The part number 
went from R1 to R2.  The problem was compounded by retainers that warped 
over time.  If you happen to have an R2 retainer, you have a better chance 
of being able to use your new seal with it.  The fixes have been pretty well 
covered in the 2 other responses.
Jim Becker

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From: "Mike Sloane" <mikesloane at verizon.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 7:05 AM
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Farmall Cub Engine seal replacement

> That isn't exactly true. The problem (as I understand it) is that IH
> machined the recess for the seal using an obsolete seal specification
> and never changed the machining (I am sure that Jim Becker and/or Ken
> Updike could explain it better). The new seal is very slightly smaller
> than the old. What I have done successfully is to use "flange sealer"  -
> Loctite 603, or the equivalent - to hold the seal in place
> <http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/603-EN.pdf>. It is an anaerobic, oil
> resistant, high temperature sealer that holds the rear seal very well. I
> have yet to have one fail in that application using that method. The
> only consideration with Loctite 603 is that it really needs about 24
> hours to properly cure.
>
> I hope that helps,
>
> Mike
>
> Dale wrote:
>> I am about to replace the front and rear engine seals on my '55 Cub,
>> since it is torn down already for repairs and fresh paint.  I just
>> bought the 2 seals plus the gasket for the rear.
>>
>>
>> 2. I was warned by the parts store that if the rear seal goes in
>> "nice and easy" it is time to replace the housing holding it (about
>> $150).  Is this a common occurrence?
>>
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