[AT] A question for the electrical wizards

[Dave Merchant]

Best bet is to run a ground wire to each of the devices.

They originally depended on metal to metal contact via
the screws + bolts holding it together to provide the ground.
Once these + the surrounding metal corrode, no juice gets thru.

Some years ago I hard wired grounds to the lights on my hauling trailer,
made a huge difference.

Easiest way is to get a crimper kit with connectors at an auto parts place.
Connectors have color coded sleeves to show what size wire
they are made for.

On a tractor note, guess how much fiddling and point cleaning I did
on my 8N last week, before I put a meter across the dead key switch.

Dave Merchant


At 11:36 PM 10/27/2009, Gene Waugh wrote:
>I cannot help you find the problem, but from what I have seen, check
>GROUND, GROUND, GROUND.  I know just enough to know that this low
>voltage dc stuff can do some really weird things under the right conditions!
>
>Gene
>Elgin, Illinois USA
>
>Rupert wrote:
> > Hello John,
> >       Sounds to me like you have a corroded connection somewhere. Check 
> the
> > firewall connector where the wires go through the firewall very
> > carefully. Corrosion in the firewall cluster is a common problem in damp
> > climates.
> >
> > Rupert
> >
> > John Wilkens wrote:
> >
> >> This is partly on topic because it involves my mostly dependable '78
> >> Ford trailer-pulling pickup........  I need some ideas about what
> >> could be causing some odd problems with it----namely, my dash lights
> >> are very dim, the light in the tach quit all together, the rear turn
> >> signals work but one front signal is dim and slow, and the other one
> >> is dead.  Other stuff seems normal.  Someone suggested I had a ground
> >> problem but what exactly does that mean, and how do I find/fix
> >> it?  Hey, any ideas for me?....please!      John W.
> >>
> >>                     In the wide-open spaces of NE Oregon
> >>
> >>
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Dave Merchant
kosh at nesys.com
nesys_com at ameritech.net
dmerchant at layerzero.com

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