[AT] Thanks!

[charliehill]

Yeah I agree with you.  I was thinking more in line of a air rachet or an an 
air impact with the torque turned down on it, just for ease of work and 
speed.

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Goss" <rlgoss at insightbb.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] Thanks!


I have a super air wrench, so I have been reluctant to put the air to the 
rivet setter. It's only cast iron (maybe cast steel) and the instructions 
warn against over-torquing the frame. They want the punch end of the setter 
to be closed so the frame can take the stresses better. I've already broken 
a couple of rivet punches when working by hand with it, so if I throw 650 
ft-lbs at the rivet setter, I might end up with it on the floor in pieces.

I bought the wrench from Harbor Freight when I was in the middle of a 
project where I needed to remove some 3/4" nuts that were rust-welded on a 
Woods mower. My former air wrench wouldn't touch the problem, but the new 
wrench backed the nuts off as though there was nothing there. The right-hand 
torque on this wrench is adjustable, so I could turn it down for riveting 
work -- I just haven't worked with it that way yet. I suppose part of it is 
the way I was "trained". I worked for a number of years with a shop owner 
named Charlie Jenkins who wouldn't let any of us in the shop assemble 
anything with an air wrench because of the possibility of stripping threads, 
etc Old modus operandi like that die hard.

The one exception I have for air wrench assembly is mower blades. For those, 
I always set the torque at the middle setting (about 425 ft-lbs) so they 
won't fall off. Wheel bolts aren't supposed to be torqued by air although 
"everybody" does it. If you want to follow the warranty on your equipment, 
you loosen all wheel bolts and re-torque them by hand with a 
micrometer-style torque wrench. It's the only way you can be assured that 
the wheel will run true. On antique tractors, that may not make much 
difference, but you don't want to hog onto the drive wheels of a ZTR with an 
air wrench.

Larry.

----- Original Message -----
From: charliehill <charliehill at embarqmail.com>
Date: Thursday, October 8, 2009 15:53
Subject: Re: [AT] Thanks!
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>

> Larry, seems like a 1" socket on an air rachet would be even
> better or does
> it need to go fairly slow.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Larry Goss" <rlgoss at insightbb.com>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 4:31 PM
> Subject: Re: [AT] Thanks!
>
>
> Yeah, I've got two or three of those, Steve, but when I was a
> kid, all we
> had available on the farm was a ball peen hammer. If you hit the
> rivet with
> a heavy blow, it just bent the rivet. You had to "work" it with
> small blows
> to form the rivet head by hand a little bit at a time. "Tick-
> tick-tick" came
> from an old Bill Cosby routine about throwing bullets in the
> furnace during
> shop class in high school.
>
> What I use now is a rivet setter that swedges the rivet with a
> one-inch
> wrench -- one operation for the whole process and the rivet is
> spin-formed
> in the process. Neat operation. I can install all new sections
> on a sickle
> knife in less than half an hour. I've been known to do it "while
> you wait"
> at tractor shows.
>
> Larry
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve W." <falcon at telenet.net>
> Date: Thursday, October 8, 2009 14:32
> Subject: Re: [AT] Thanks!
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-
> tractor.com>
> > Larry Goss wrote:
> > > It just goes to show you that I have NOT learned all of life's
> > > lessons yet, Chuck. In my heart, I would still like to
> > be able to
> > > set a rivet on a sickle bar with just one blow rather than
> > > tick-tick-tick away at it for a half hour or more.
> > >
> > > Larry
> > >
> >
> > What do you mean tick - tick - tick...
> >
> > You want to do a NICE rivet set in a couple seconds?
> >
> > Get a rivet header for your air hammer. I made one out of a
> POS chisel
> > that wouldn't hold up. Cut the shank square, then used a ball
> > end cutter
> > in a Dremel to grind a nice cup in the end. Heated it red hot
> > and oil
> > quenched. Works GREAT. Made a backer for it out of a chunk of
> > rail iron.
> >
> > I spaced a pair of holes so I can do both rivets in about 15
> seconds.>
> > -- 
> > Steve W.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
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