[AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question

Tue Jun 2 17:03:06 PDT 2009

Larry -

You may be the go-to guy for my question on a 42-inch Craftsman mower I have 
that has developed a vibration in the deck when the blades are engaged that 
wasn't there in the past. I checked the blades and they're straight and 
balanced. No play in the spindles either. I even put new blades on to ensure 
it wasn't them, but I still get the vibration. It doesn't vibrate when the 
deck isn't engaged. A friend told me to try a new drive belt, which I 
haven't yet since the current one seems fine. Could it be the main drive 
shaft/wheel?

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Bob in CNY

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Goss" <rlgoss at insightbb.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question

Some hydros are sealed at the factory and have no way of servicing them.

Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: Recentjester at aol.com
Date: Tuesday, June 2, 2009 6:58
Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com

> are all hydro tranies the same? I have a sears one an it seems a
> little
> slow at times. It is a gray machine with a 19 horse opposed
> briggs. never saw
> any way to change the fluid
>
>
> In a message dated 6/2/2009 6:24:32 A.M. Central Daylight
> Time,
> soffiler at gmail.com writes:
>
> Interesting idea. At this point Carter & Gruenewald has
> my money and
> the new valve will be on my doorstep momentarily. Had
> a nice chat
> with Ken Updike to boot. The old valve can become a
> scienceexperiment.
>
> Steve O.
>
> On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 11:41 PM, Mike Meulenberg
> <msm10301 at juno.com> wrote:
> > What about using a high quality metal epoxy to reconnect
> the valves once
> you machine them apart? I see now that they make an epoxy
> that will hold
> copper water pipe fittings in place with out sweating.
> What would you have
> to lose other than the $5-6 for the epoxy. Mike M
> >
> > ---------- Original Message ----------
> > From: "Steve W." <falcon at telenet.net>
> > To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
> > Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2009 13:53:03 -0400
> >
> > Stephen Offiler wrote:
> >> Hi SteveW:
> >>
> >> Thanks for the inputs; I appreciate it. Everybody is
> telling me they
> >> are PRV's. It's the shop manual that is calling
> them "check valves";
> >> wouldn't they know? They appear to function as I'd
> expect a
> >> check-valve... the spring pressure on the ball is
> pretty light, so
> >> it'll flow pretty easily with a small pressure
> differential in one
> >> direction, and close up tight going back the other
> way. I'd expect a
> >> PRV to have a much heavier spring, and to hold closed
> until the
> >> setpoint is reached. My problem valve, PRV or
> not, is located in a
> >> port on the pump that leads directly to a line to a
> distribution>> block, and thus appears that they must
> normally flow in order to
> >> pressurize that block. I guess my point is that,
> while hydraulics are
> >> NOT one of my specialties, these things do appear to me
> to be
> >> check-valves. I think perhaps the saving grace in
> the distinction
> >> between the two types of valves is that this spring is
> pretty light,
> >> so I probably have a shot at getting it back together,
> whereas a heavy
> >> spring would be a bigger struggle. And to
> think... at first I was
> >> so pleased to learn how easy it was to access the area,
> and the
> >> specific component, that was the root cause of my
> mystery leak...
> >>
> >> Best regards,
> >> SteveO.
> >
> > If they are the ones on top of the hydro they are PRVs
> for the charge
> > pump. They are not very strong but they retain some
> pressure in the pump
> > to keep it operating without cavitation. They do act as
> a check valve in
> > that they don't allow the hydro fluid to return through them.
> >
> > If you have a lathe and a TIG they can be rebuilt. You
> need to cut some
> > of the crimp off then remove the shell. To reinstall the
> shell you can
> > do a couple things. One is to TIG a short collar onto
> the shell and
> > crimp the shell back on. I have also cut the bottom of
> the valve enough
> > that the original shell could just be roll crimped back on.
> >
> > --
> > Steve Williams
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
> >
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